Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

did a search but f*rk me, when u type in the words 'broken', 'engine' and 'mounts' you get alot of different search results relating to other things.

ANYWAY

was just about to set up an drop my 25 in my 32, when i only now just realised the engine mounts are broken.

See pics below ->

drivers side:

post-32703-1193438598_thumb.jpg

passengers side:

post-32703-1193438570_thumb.jpg

the actuall brackets from the engine to the mounting positions are fine. its just these black platicy rubbery parts of the mounts have cracked clean in half...

im just about to trip off too nissan to see if they have some replacements. anyone else had this trouble before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190953-engine-mounts/
Share on other sites

If you want to save a few $$$ i would suggest getting some VL turbo engine mounts (even just VL should do) shaving off the small rubber mounting point and using those. Far far cheaper than buying genuine nissan mounts.. However if you have snapped a mount or 2 using the rb20 i daresay that in time you will snap a few using the 25, but this would be a good temporary fix until you get some good aftermarket mounts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190953-engine-mounts/#findComment-3437619
Share on other sites

cheers guys.

I just got back from nissan, i didnt expect them to be cheap but when the guy told me $110 EACH i got a little light headed. I'll go check out sprints or something now an see what they can come up with an hopefully ill get this engine in before dark :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190953-engine-mounts/#findComment-3437688
Share on other sites

yea well not good enough:P i just got back from sprints and purchased some RB30E mounts for $34 for the pair :P the stud is a little short but i think ill just grind down the bracket a bit just enough for the stud to pop through properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190953-engine-mounts/#findComment-3437770
Share on other sites

lol i wouldnt say 'reliable'. the stud doesnt even pop out the top of the nut.... it doesnt even make it half way :P but it will do for a temporary fix and atleast it will allow me to get as far as dropping the engine in.

just for peoples information the RB30E mounts are identicle to the RB20det and RB25det mounts except for the top stud is half the length. everything else about them is the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190953-engine-mounts/#findComment-3438772
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...