Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldnt think there would be a direct performance gain. The main reason you use it is so you dont get oil shitting up your intake/intercooler. Also the oil can contribute detonation on cars with alot of blowby, but i wouldnt go advancing the timing or anything like that after I installed a OAS.

Correction to all.

An oil/air separator simply allows your engine crankcase to "breathe" and separate oil from air before returning it to the intake.

With the parts moving inside the engine (pistons up and down) there can be a marginal amount of air displacement.

This air has to come and go from somewhere.... in standard form, there is a provision made, but can feed oily air back in to the intake.

By fitting an oil/air separator, it allows the oil to be removed from the air before returning back to the intake.

It also reduces crankcase compression that is caused by the displacement of air and blowby caused by worn pistons/rings

The oil/air separator doesn't allow the crankcase to "breathe", it's the holes in the cam covers which do that. Whether you have them feed straight back into the intake or plenum or through a catch can or separator or even just a breather filter is irrelevant, in all cases it still "breathes".

Busky2k's description sums up the oil/air separator's function perfectly, there is no need for a "correction".

Originally posted by Busky2k

I wouldnt think there would be a direct performance gain. The main reason you use it is so you dont get oil shitting up your intake/intercooler. Also the oil can contribute detonation on cars with alot of blowby, but i wouldnt go advancing the timing or anything like that after I installed a OAS.

Busky2k is sorta right, the reason for installing a oil air seperator especially on race or high boost application cars is cause the oil that ends up being recycled back into the engine goes down and gets burnt with the gas, with it mixing with your gas it lowers the octain rating which causes detonation. so by installing 1 of these you will lessen the chance of detonation and run safer higher boost levels especially if you do hav blow by problems. So the only performance gains i could see would be very minimal.

instead of having the cam cover hose going to the plenum make it go to the oil catch can and on the other cam cover the one going to the intake just make that go to the oil catch can as well.. theres that way or.. leave the one in the plenum and make the intake hose go to the catch can instead.. if ya know what i mean??

I personaly dont see the point in havinin a oil air seperator if your only goint to run 1 of your hoses from your valve covers to the catch can, but yes VLRB20DET you just disconnect them from the plenum and the intake ducting and run them to your catch can, dont forget to plug the hole up that you've disconnected. Because on most R32 series valves covers the the connections are pointing in two different directions you could take them out and use the connections from a RB20DE which are just right angled connection and dont have the connector piece going between them you can point them in any direction you want, eg: to you catch can where ever you decide to put it.

Hope that helped

Soon as i get sum pictures from my camera to the comp i'll show you how i have mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that.... If only I could do something once and be happy with that, like some people do....
    • I had no transmission at all so I managed to find a big box manual gearbox from an R34 GTT for an insanely good price in EU. I converted it to push type which cost more than the transmission almost, with parts from Amayama! These engines are very strong and can put out decent power with a properly sized turbo. You can save on money from parts like pistons and rods, and invest those in the transmission and other parts. I suggest you join the RB20 Enthusiasts facebook group, plenty of info and almost daily posts there about 20DE/DET/Neo+T builds. (I hope I'm not breaking any forum rules by mentioning third party platforms, just trying to help the buddy out)
    • Yeah, having tried all of those methods including BBQ+recipro/hacksaw, I ended up buying a bush press kit under $150 that works well, like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355967727167?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=sfmmuhxgqhm&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY It basically has a range of pushers and cups with threaded rods between to press out a range of large bushes. The problem with any sawing solution is minimising damage to the subframe side, although it probably needs a quick sand afterwards no matter what solution you try due to damage
    • Hi. Thanks for the answer. I do not have instagram 😄 I too considering turbo the RB20DE NEO 🙂 But i think i upgrade the gearbox first or at least buy new.  
    • Just pulled the passenger apart so got a good idea, also the side bracket that pivots the top half is completely cooked.. how I don’t know.. haha and paid $400 also included a photo of the passenger seat! She is mint
×
×
  • Create New...