4wd Light For S2's

[chook]

Had my 4WD light appear a few times this week, did some research and came up with this info for S2 owners.

If your light appears you will need to check the codes in the control unit.

-access the ' data link connector', bottom right side of dash behind flip down door.

-ignition OFF

-ground bottom middle terminal using a wire.

-ignition ON

-observe flashes (also beeps) of ABS light

-it will start with 12, 1 long flash then 2 short.

-it will then flash the fault codes.

-to clear the codes, whilst in this diagnostic mode, disconnect the grounded terminal, then ground it 3 or more times, for at least 2 sec, within 12.5 sec. restart diagnostic mode to check they have been arranged. Mine took a few attempts before the codes were cleared.

21 Front right wheel sensor (open circuit)

22 Front right wheel sensor (short - circuit)

25 Front left wheel sensor (open circuit)

26 Front left wheel sensor (short circuit)

31 Rear right wheel sensor (short circuit)

32 Rear left wheel sensor (short circuit)

35 Rear left whel sensor (open circuit)

36 Rear left whell sensor (short circuit)

41 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit

42 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit

45 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit

46 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit

55 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

56 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

57 Battery voltage

61 ABS actuator motor and motor relay circuit

63 ABS acutuator relay circuit

64 FR & RR G sensor 1

65 FR & RR G sensor 2

66 FR & RR sensor 1 or 2

68 G sensor voltage

69 Side G sensor voltage

71 ATTESA E_TS PRO/ABS control unit and circuit

72 Throttle position sensor

73,74 E-TS/LSD actuator motor

76,77 Pressure switch

78 Air bleed switch

79 Oil level switch

91,92,93 E-TS solenoid

94,95,96 E-TS fail safe solenoid

97,98,99 LSD solenoid

http://tyndago.googlepages.com/gt-rattesainfrormation

Ok, mine flased the codes 12,72,92 (Throttle position sensor and ETS solenoid.)

Can someone tell me where exactly the ETS solenoid is ?

and what can be done about the TPS ? just replace ?

Edited October 27, 2007 by chook

[Duncan]

well....I would start with earthing or voltage problems since they can cause multiple sensors to show the wrong signal.

after that, the ETS solenoid is the main pump sittin above the diff. expensive to replace a 33 gtr one should be the same.

tps would be the place to start if its not an earth problem, replace it and see if it fixes the problem

have you changed the ecu for something like a 34 gtt PFC? You need to make a small modification to the loom if so.

[chook]

well....I would start with earthing or voltage problems since they can cause multiple sensors to show the wrong signal.

after that, the ETS solenoid is the main pump sittin above the diff. expensive to replace a 33 gtr one should be the same.

tps would be the place to start if its not an earth problem, replace it and see if it fixes the problem

have you changed the ecu for something like a 34 gtt PFC? You need to make a small modification to the loom if so.

thanks, stock ecu, although replaced battery last week, may have upset something, will drive it around and see if it appears again after clearing the error codes.

[PhilTacular]

My 4WD light has also been coming on occasionally, mostly on these last hot days we've had.

I also have a relay that clicks every 3 seconds, it's the black relay in the top corner, D/S of the engine bay.

I retrieved the diag-code, and it is 77 - pressure switch.

Any ideas on remedies?

Edited March 21, 2008 by PhilTacular

[DaveB]

My 4WD light has also been coming on occasionally, mostly on these last hot days we've had.

I also have a relay that clicks every 3 seconds, it's the brown relay in the top corner, D/S of the engine bay.

I retrieved the diag-code, and it is 77 - pressure switch.

Any ideas on remedies?

Ah-ha! snap! Me too - the light and the clicking (only it's every 10 seconds for me). I thought it could be air in the attesa lines? How to bleed them though...

thanks, stock ecu, although replaced battery last week, may have upset something, will drive it around and see if it appears again after clearing the error codes.

Have any codes re-appeared Simon?

Edited March 18, 2008 by DaveB

[Duncan]

bleeding the attessa is easy enough, put the car up on stands, fill the resoviour in the cargo area, start the car. then open the bleeder nipple at the rear of the transfer case right next to where the hydraulic line goes in. Once the motor is running the pump forces it to bleed itself.

The tricky bit is that there is another bleeder above the rear driveshaft. that is harder to get to.

But it sounds like your pump is dead or there is a wiring (power supply or earth) problem to me

[chook]

Ah-ha! snap! Me too - the light and the clicking (only it's every 10 seconds for me). I thought it could be air in the attesa lines? How to bleed them though...

Have any codes re-appeared Simon?

Nothing has reappeared, no 4WD light, think i traced it back to incorrect TPS voltage reading.

[DaveB]

Edit: I just ran the ATTESA diagnostic and I am receiving fault code 77. May be a common fault, there are several other people on here reporting similar symptoms. Please could somebody shed some light on what the pressure switch is / where it is located? I can't find it in FAST!

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bleeding the attessa is easy enough, put the car up on stands, fill the resoviour in the cargo area, start the car. then open the bleeder nipple at the rear of the transfer case right next to where the hydraulic line goes in. Once the motor is running the pump forces it to bleed itself.

The tricky bit is that there is another bleeder above the rear driveshaft. that is harder to get to.

But it sounds like your pump is dead or there is a wiring (power supply or earth) problem to me

Thanks Duncan, I didn't know that the ATTESA system could be bled without the aid of a workshop - that is good news. Had noticed the bleeder valves in FAST before.

I don't think the pump is dead because I get traction from the front wheels and no 4WD light coming on; I will check the fault codes. Assuming the codes are the same as PhilTacular (77 - pressure switch) where is this switch located?

Nothing has reappeared, no 4WD light, think i traced it back to incorrect TPS voltage reading.

That's good news Are you getting the clicking ATTESA relay problem?

Thanks!

Edited March 19, 2008 by DaveB

[PhilTacular]

I took my car back to the dealer and asked them to check out the clicking relay (it's driving me crazy) and 4WD light coming on (which hasn't come on for about 2 months now), but the light didn't come on so they couldn't diagnose the problem.

They put it on the hoist and said the 4WD was working, so they couldn't fault it. They're not convinced the clicking relay has anything to do with the 4WD system. I am going to book it in again so they can trace the relay problem properly (I don't why the didn't this time, as it is specifically what I asked to be fixed!?), so I will let you know how it goes.

I performed the diagnostics on the ATTESA again this morning and didn't get any codes this time, so I don't know what is going on.

BTW: I think the pressure switch is mounted above the rear diff. It's like a cylinder shape about 3" long (no jokes OK) I think it has a sticker on the side that says pressure switch and the part no, but is pretty hard to get to. I think you would need to take the diff out to remove it.

Edited March 21, 2008 by PhilTacular

[wolverine]

i just changed rear tyres and adjusted the ride height slightly.

the click is gone.

go figure.

maybe it is something to do with slight wheel/tyre diameter changes associated to wear?

[DaveB]

maybe it is something to do with slight wheel/tyre diameter changes associated to wear?

Maybe? Wouldn't that be cool Hoping so... don't wanna have to remove rear diff' so might just have to wait and see what happens... 4wd is working and no warning lights. will top up attesa reservoir and reset attesa ecu fault codes.

[PhilTacular]

I performed a little test during the week on this clicking relay situation. As the computer isn't reporting any fault codes at the moment, I figured it would be a good time to test it. This is what I did:

1. Drove to work in the moring (relay clicking all the while)

2. In the afternoon, I started the car then disconnected the fat red wire connector from the clicking relay. Immediately the 4WD light came on and stayed on the whole way home (35kms)

3. Performed the diagnostics and got code 73 - E-TS/LSD actuator motor (what's ETS?)

4. Cleared the codes, and re-connected the relay wire

5. Started the car and the 4WD light went out, and the relay commenced clicking

6. Performed the diagnostics again, this time with no codes as per before the test, then cleared the codes anyway

Now from this info I deduce that the relay controls the E-TS/LSD actuator motor, therefore a constantly clicking relay signifies a fault with this actuator. Why the 4WD light dosen't come on, and/or the computer dosen't log any codes has got me beat.

I'll let the dealer know about this when I take the car back, and see what they come up with.

Would anyone else like to try this test and see if the result is the same?

Edited March 28, 2008 by PhilTacular

[DaveB]

I performed a little test during the week on this clicking relay situation. As the computer isn't reporting any fault codes at the moment, I figured it would be a good time to test it. This is what I did:

1. Drove to work in the moring (relay clicking all the while)

2. In the afternoon, I started the car then disconnected the fat red wire connector from the clicking relay. Immediately the 4WD light came on and stayed on the whole way home (35kms)

3. Performed the diagnostics and got code 73 - E-TS/LSD actuator motor (what's ETS?)

4. Cleared the codes, and re-connected the relay wire

5. Started the car and the 4WD light went out, and the relay commenced clicking

6. Performed the diagnostics again, this time with no codes as per before the test, then cleared the codes anyway

Now from this info I deduce that the relay controls the E-TS/LSD actuator motor, therefore a constantly clicking relay signifies a fault with this actuator. Why the 4WD light dosen't come on, and/or the computer dosen't log any codes has got me beat.

I'll let the dealer know about this when I take the car back, and see what they come up with.

Would anyone else like to try this test and see if the result is the same?

My guess is that hopefully the ATTESA actuator simply requires topping up and/or filling. I topped mine up (a little over full to be safe) and my relay only clicks about once every 30 seconds max. now.

Full name of ATTESA is ATTESA-ETS, so I'm guessing that's what the ETS is (Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All - Electronic Torque Split)

I would *really like to know* what the dealer makes of your problem, if they can solve it! Please do keep us posted!

Edited March 28, 2008 by DaveB

[petrolfix]

i have been having a lot of heart-ache with my 4wd sytem not working. mine fault codes come up as 78,69,

what is the air bleed swithch?

and does any one know how much voltage should the g sensor be getting and where does it get it 's power from? eg staraght from the computer?

[Duncan]

g sensor gets 8v in. there is an earth in that loom as well.

why do you need the air bleed switch. attessa bleeds itself when the ignition is on so just put it up on stands, turn on ignition and open the bleeder. easy

[petrolfix]

g sensor gets 8v in. there is an earth in that loom as well.

why do you need the air bleed switch. attessa bleeds itself when the ignition is on so just put it up on stands, turn on ignition and open the bleeder. easy

thanks for that duncan but the fault code says the air bleed switch does this mean the system needs bleeding? and i ill double check that g sensor earth (allready checked it like 5 times) but ther is locktite on all the screws that hold that plate in so i will remove that and check that it is getting 8v. on the other similar post u mentioned an earth strap from the diff to the body where exactly is it had a quick look the other day but diddn't see anything. (probly couldn't see it for looking)

[petrolfix]

76,77 Pressure switch

78 Air bleed switch

ok for some mysterious reason my fault codes keep changing every time i try and fix somthing this time it is coming up 78 and 77. does anyone know where this pressure swithch is and/or where the air bleed switch. iam going out side now to take it for a drive and see what other fault codes come up or if the change.

i blead the atessa system today and changed out the fluid so i am reasonably confident that there is no air in the system (only bleed throught the bleeder behind the transfer case)

i just checked my g sesor also and yes it is getting 8 volts.

i also cleaned the earth on the rear cradle today

this is driving me nuts y dosn't my 4wd work and whem should the relay click

[mains_stag]

well....I would start with earthing or voltage problems since they can cause multiple sensors to show the wrong signal.

after that, the ETS solenoid is the main pump sittin above the diff. expensive to replace a 33 gtr one should be the same.

tps would be the place to start if its not an earth problem, replace it and see if it fixes the problem

have you changed the ecu for something like a 34 gtt PFC? You need to make a small modification to the loom if so.

I have a simular problem, my AT light sometimes flashes when i put my high beam on and can turn on and engage the front wheels at random on the freeway. light turns off and wheels disengage when i come to a stop, then i'm fine to keep driving till the next time it happens? checked the resevior in the back, and is within limits.

greatly appretiate any wisdom or experiance you can share.

[petrolfix]

BUMP some one must know where the air bleed valve is and what does it do exactly?

same same for the pressure switch and its function. is my system over/under pressure?

what pressure is it ment to be?

[PhilTacular]

Got this relay problem looked at again last week.

They hooked up a scanner to the 4WD ECU and got a 33 - Pressure Sensor code. They traced all the hydraulic lines for the 4WD system and the only pressure sensor or switch is mounted on top of the diff. They weren't 100% confident that this would solve the problem and I didn't want to pay for the labour to remove the diff to find out, so the clicking relay remains.

One thing they did notice was that there is one wire connected to the relay that is sending a -ve pulse which causes the relay to switch. But without access to a wiring diagram they were unable to trace it. I forgot to ask which wire it was, but maybe someone else can also check this.

I am assured though, that the 4WD system is working as it should. They tested it in the wet and everything is as it should be: 4WD engages when loss of traction is detected, and the 'Torque Split' guage shows a reading.

I think this is all the time I want to spend on this minor problem.

PS. My car is a manual, I don't know if the ATTESA is the same in autos.

Edited April 15, 2008 by PhilTacular