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hey guys when the battery light comes on while the car is running, it has nothin to do with the battery, it means there is a problem with the charing system, usually the alternator or wiring to alternator, i see alot of people do this mistake, just let us know how u go dude.

  • 2 weeks later...

Mine was being a bit difficult a while ago and cutting out etc. Was really frustrating, turned out to be a dodgy AFM and crank angle sensor, try swap them out with a mates if u can and go for a decent drive and see if that rectifies it. Goodluck buddy

Hi

I am having the exact same problem too...I drive a 94 GTS-T. It will drive fine but all of a sudden whenever i press break the engine will just stop. It ususally happens when it's really hot, like when i drive in the evening it will run fine but in the afternoon it will stop more often.

  K-Monster said:
Hi

I am having the exact same problem too...I drive a 94 GTS-T. It will drive fine but all of a sudden whenever i press break the engine will just stop. It ususally happens when it's really hot, like when i drive in the evening it will run fine but in the afternoon it will stop more often.

Is it an instant stop? Or does it go down to idle then stall?

id say def not the coil packs mate..does the car start again straight after it stalls or do you have to leave it for a while..?..sounds like either the crank angle sensor or the ignition module.!

  adam-__- said:
Is it an instant stop? Or does it go down to idle then stall?

Mien does this when pulling up to a roundabout/lights corner and i am breaking/shifting down. Sometimes the revs will just drop lower than it should and it will die on me. When this starts to happen (usually after the car warms up it'll happen every now and then) the idle will become a little rougher

...aac valve sound like the problem? ill be taking it to a proper workshop soon i think, the last dickhead to touch my car charged me an arm and a leg for a major service and this problem still occurs :ermm:

  delljit said:
Mien does this when pulling up to a roundabout/lights corner and i am breaking/shifting down. Sometimes the revs will just drop lower than it should and it will die on me. When this starts to happen (usually after the car warms up it'll happen every now and then) the idle will become a little rougher

...aac valve sound like the problem? ill be taking it to a proper workshop soon i think, the last dickhead to touch my car charged me an arm and a leg for a major service and this problem still occurs :(

Check over your intercooler piping before bringing it to any shop. It could be leaking and causing the stalling.

  adam-__- said:
Check over your intercooler piping before bringing it to any shop. It could be leaking and causing the stalling.

any advice to do this properly? I guess i have to take the front bar off and get right down there but how do i check for leaks accurately?

  delljit said:
any advice to do this properly? I guess i have to take the front bar off and get right down there but how do i check for leaks accurately?

Just check over your piping clamps. See if they're all tight.

  adam-__- said:
Is it an instant stop? Or does it go down to idle then stall?

Hi Thanks for your response, sorry I was away so couldn't reply earlier. As soon as i press break it stalls...the engine stops.

  TAS_SINFUL said:
id say def not the coil packs mate..does the car start again straight after it stalls or do you have to leave it for a while..?..sounds like either the crank angle sensor or the ignition module.!

I can start the car immedietely using the key or just using the 2nd gear.

common cause of stalling is an intake leak like an aftermarket blow-off valve or a loost intercooler clamp

common cause of cutting out when the engine is warm in the AFM

find out whether your car stalls or cuts out. if it cuts out, swap the AFM i guarantee you its the problem

all the cooler piping in the engine bay was fine, i couldnt get the plugs off the grille to get the front bar off to get right in there and underneath to check those clamps tho lol

i have no friends with skylines to test afm, think im just gonna have to bite the bullet and see a quality garage its breaking my heart

If you have working eyes and hands and can read english, you can fix the AFM issue for yourself.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...p;hl=SOLDER+AFM

It'll cost you time and a about $30 for soldering iron and solder and sealant (if you don't already have any of those.)

there are pics and stright forward instrucitons of what to do.

anyone who buys a skyline should do a handful of things as part of the first service I think.

1.) new copper spark plugs gapged at 0.8mm

2.) tape up coil packs with good electrical tape (or buy that silicon shit for a bit more money)

3.) Clean AAC valve.

4.) Clean AFM

5.) Re-solder AFM internal points

6.) new nissan paper ai filter element for stock air box

these along with new oil and oil filter, new fuel filter, will see a brand new car in most instances... especially if you've just bought a stock or near stock skyline which is 10-19 years old.

it will cost you bugger all in the grand scheme of things and will probably solve many little bullshit issues these cars have.

  TAS_SINFUL said:
id say def not the coil packs mate..does the car start again straight after it stalls or do you have to leave it for a while..?..sounds like either the crank angle sensor or the ignition module.!

MAte,

When it stalls, I can restart the car and it drives fine again...

UPDATE: after swapping the battery; I thought this fixed the problem but no good... although it happens a tad less, still occurs... I'll drive nicely and then a couple of hours later, it would stall... then I restart and it would work fine again....

I think it's the cranke senor and the ignition modulle or the AFM - I will bring this to either Chasers or Nismo Motors in a couple of weeks.... do you guys think this will be costly to fix AND would the mechanic know how to fix this?

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