Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

After my radiator build and my surge tank build, I thought i'd show you the plenum i'm building, or what I have so far atleast.

It's an RB20DE bottom half with the runners cut off, I've then welded in 50.8x3mm wall 55mm long extensions then welded on 5mm plate as my backing.. I haven't had much time to do much else yet, but I'll get onto the rest soon.. but I thought id give you some tease pictures..

I cleaned the plenum up, wire buffed the gasket goop off and used the chemical I normally use to clean alloy with.. Before welding it all together, I preheated it in our big bake oven to 380deg c for 15 minutes to stop any potential warpage.

Anyway, onto the porn..

post-8270-1193540807_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540820_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540835_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540857_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540872_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540884_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540920_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540927_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540978_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193540998_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193541014_thumb.jpg

post-8270-1193541041_thumb.jpg

As my last posts of the stuff i've made, comments, complaints or anything..

Thanks,

Scott

Edited by salival
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191089-r32-plenum-makings/
Share on other sites

looks the good so far.

u planning on testing it after your done?

Hiya,

I'll pressure test it to 25psi.. but flow test? no..

It's only a poxy rb20.. I mainly want it for the look and the reduced pipe work.. I do all this work on saturdays at my work.. so it's costing me nothing (including materials)

mate u might wanna throw some trumpets on each runner to increase air velocity/speed/distribution

I'm not using trumpets on this particular one..

I've welded inside/outside of each runner where it meets the backing plate.. I'm going to machine a radius on each runner so it merges nicely..

I'm not using trumpets on this particular one..

I've welded inside/outside of each runner where it meets the backing plate.. I'm going to machine a radius on each runner so it merges nicely..

thats exactly how i want to make my rb20 plenum, i just need an aluminium welder at work... damn not having one anymore...!!

  • 1 month later...
I'm not using trumpets on this particular one..

I've welded inside/outside of each runner where it meets the backing plate.. I'm going to machine a radius on each runner so it merges nicely..

after doing some research i learnt that Actually flows more then having internal trumpets, the advantage that trumpets have is it has more air velocity and the air distribution is more even threw all cylinders

alot if not all of the jap brand plenums do not use thrumpets as they are more worried about air flow

  • 2 weeks later...

you will find that a radiussed bellmouth sitting on your base is the best for flow, which is the main reason why people go for a different plenum.

greedy 2jz, jun sr20 & maybe greedy rb26 all have raised bellmouths

  • 4 weeks later...

I want to see more! Im actually doing this same thing. Im using trumpets but am going to make the very outer tip of the trumpet flush with the plate instead of sticking out into the plenum. Its like what your doing but with less machining......hopefully. Are you putting yours into a 180sx? Im wondering how far mine can stick out without hitting the strut tower and giving me good clearance? Very nice job on the tig work too!

  • 2 weeks later...
whats the best way of cutting the cast runners of the flange??

How i've done this on the few that i've made has been to use a 'woodworker's' bandsaw then facemill all the runners to a uniform height. Usually at a 10deg. angle down to help with clearence around the brake booster and clutch master.

Trumpets / Bellmouths are an absolute must!! I made a die from 75mm BMS bar then pressed it into the alloy tube. (before welding)

post-34959-1200742831_thumb.jpg

post-34959-1200742907_thumb.jpg

post-34959-1200743101_thumb.jpg

post-34959-1200743262_thumb.jpg

Edited by Nigel.
i personally think u should have welded it on both sides (inside and out side) so that u can machine down the welds on the out side of the plenum so it looks like its all one peice from the out side

img1158b1l.jpg

Ah, but you see.. there is a flaw in your plan..

I love welds :(

  • 2 weeks later...
post-8270-1193540998_thumb.jpg

im at this same point with my manifold,. what are u going to do about the step in the runners? what tool u gonna use to even them out? cuz i did the same thing. used 2" tubes for runners but the stock runner is about 1.90" where as the tubes are perfect 2"? is there some kind of grinding tool that has some length to be able to get inside?

Edited by (--MeUnVmosT---)
  • 4 weeks later...

you guys are doing a great job..

I have started my project (11 months ago! lol) where i was using trumpets inside the plenum.

however, I have been looking at using shower form injection. This is where the injectors are mounted directly above, facing down the inside of the trumpet.

Indy cars do this. they say it helps build topend power.

The idea is that the 'shower' of fuel helps capture extra air and force it into the cylinder, this also gives better atomization.. which should mean more power for the same amount of fuel..

My plan is to use a shallower plenum with similar volume, with indents in the roof of the plenum above the trumpets for the injector bosses. LOTS of work! My current problem is tring to get manifold runner length while still leaving space for the injectors. I have been measuring and calculating how well it will work if i do a plenum that sits ontop of the existing runners.. I am concerned that the 'shower' of fuel may stall with the longer bent runners. i know somebody with a flow bench, so I have not touched the project until I do more research. cos i currently have to many variables.

did that hurt anybodies head? did mine!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...