Jump to content
SAU Community

Stcok Standard R32gtr

locoloc

By locoloc,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

locoloc Community Regular

locoloc

Posted
Posted

I just brought a stock standard r32 gtr. (and I mean stock standard )

I'm not sure how powerfull or restrictive they are with the stock parts, but I swear I felt a

lot more kick in my old car ( old car = r32 gtst, fmic, exhaust, r33 turbo, hks opod filter )

Does this sound right??

I do feel that there is power, but I dont feel much pull. I heard that a stock gtr is supposed to be quick.

In first gear it lags unitl about 3000 rpm, then a small kick, then at about 5000rpm it kind of levels out

The revs continue to climb but only at a steady pace.

The same thing happens in second.

By third gear it feels quick but thats because it's already been an eternity and i'm already going over 1ookm.

The engine sounds fine but just sounds lioke it's working very hard after 5000rpm for not much gain.

ALL I'M REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT IS THAT HAVE I BLOWN A TURBO(S) OR IS THE STOCK SET UP VERY RESTRICTIVE.

It doesnt bother me if it's not quick, but I just need to know if it's as quick as it can be for the current set up.

Does anyone have any insight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191343-stcok-standard-r32gtr/
Share on other sites
MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
Posted

First thing you should be checking is smoke pouring out your exhaust if a blown turbo is suspected to be the culprit.

I cant comment much on the gtr stock as a rock performance, but as far as I am aware they are referred to as very quick stock, but referring to stock as upgraded exhaust, filters, boost etc. Thats when they crack the 12sec barriers.

How much power was the R32gtst putting out? Id assume around 185-190rwkw. That is still fairly quick in the lighter r32, probaly a mid to low 13sec car.

It is an interesting comparison.

MZTRBO Experienced

MZTRBO

Posted
Posted

Also it depends on your drivnig style. As we all know not everyone likes to be launching there r32gtst with the weak gearbox, so you may have adapted a similar driving style with the GTR. Go to the drags, rev it to 6000rpm, side step the clutch (if it can handle the power?) and im sure you will then witness what the GTR is all about.

I'd be interested to know what others think.

locoloc Community Regular

locoloc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Also it depends on your drivnig style. As we all know not everyone likes to be launching there r32gtst with the weak gearbox, so you may have adapted a similar driving style with the GTR. Go to the drags, rev it to 6000rpm, side step the clutch (if it can handle the power?) and im sure you will then witness what the GTR is all about.

I'd be interested to know what others think.

thats a fair comment...

Becuase the engine sounds and feels fine, or very good.

And there feels to be a lot of potential with minor mods...but I thought I would feel a lot more torque with a stock set up, thats all.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You felt a 'kick' from the R32 as you had a turbo that was a tad laggy.

So it ramped up onto boost differently.

The GTR is stock, whilst they are not slow in stock form, they arent exactly a rocketship either.

I suggest taking the car to a performance mechanic and have them inspect the car if you are unsure of it.

warriorbrawl Contributor

warriorbrawl

Posted
Posted
You felt a 'kick' from the R32 as you had a turbo that was a tad laggy.

So it ramped up onto boost differently.

The GTR is stock, whilst they are not slow in stock form, they arent exactly a rocketship either.

I suggest taking the car to a performance mechanic and have them inspect the car if you are unsure of it.

Agreed any car with stock boost generally delivers power in a very linear fashion.

Dont take it out and thrash it, if there is a problem you will only make it worse- get it checked out by someone that knows gtr's and can check the tune as in the AFR's.

at least then you can drive your new car knowing its all good.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

If you are worried I would suggest the following:

First up, check the timing. Insufficient ignition advance will make the car feel sluggish.

If that is ok then take it to a dyno & get it run up. Check the AFR's while you are there.

Then you will know for sure.

What you need to remember is that you very quickly get used to how "fast" a car feels - particularly a turbo car as it lacks immediate torque. As often as not a car with a flat torque curve will feel slower than one with an uneven one. Despite the first of the two being quicker.

RPR33 Community Regular

RPR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Wait I know a guy with a r32 gtr with only pod filters (that he knows of) and it made 228rwkw not awkw. and runs like high 8's down an 8th mile (200m) the dyno may have been a little high maybe but it does pull away from my 200rwkw r33

Edited by RPR33
D-Garage Newbie

D-Garage

Posted
Posted

dude if it flatens out at 5k check your running 20deg of timing, some people 'tune' them to run on 'aussie fuel' aka 91oct and run them at like 10deg of timing to stop any chance of pinging. that would make it feel like it goes ok when the turbos come on boost then die in the ass just after.

locoloc Community Regular

locoloc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for all inputs...

I hope it is a timing issue and I also suspect it to be a fuel issue.

I dont want to touch the timing as I dont really know what i'm doing...

Gonna book in for a dyno and get the timing looked at

Once again, It doesnt bother me if it's not zippy because I intended on slowly building it up anyway.

At the time of purchase I had a workshop check it. compression test it and they also sais the car drove well..

The compression was (i cant remember exact) around 160 with only 5 psi diffence between all cylinders..

The only faults they could point were some minor leaks in the engine which should have been fixed for the RWC..

It's just disappointing because I thought I had something I could start fresh on....

However all may just be well,, wait till the dyno results and someone a bit more GTR knowledge to look at it.

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

Sounds dirty! I mean you should check the AFM's/AAC valve/intercooler/throttle body etc etc. because they all affect boost response and A/F ratios.

I'm no expert but common sense is you should do basic maintenance like that (esp. on an old car) before checking for turbo wear or anything else more serious.

The GTR should be zippy. You shouldn't have a doubt that its quick!

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted (edited)

The only stock standard GTR I went in was really really disappointing. Was running stock boost, stock exhaust, stock everything - I struggled to believe it.... I had a semi-wanked up NA Honda which was pretty comparable in acceleration (dodges flames).

The new owner of the otherwise mint R32 GTR trucked on and did a full service, got it a very unrestrictive full exhaust system, pod filters and an electronic boost controller for it and ran 1bar of boost. He was pretty happy with it and told me I should come for a drive to see if I thought it was better - to be fair I didn't have overly high expectations after how horrid it felt before. Seriously, the thing lost traction when it hit full boost in first and had my whole hearted attention from that point forward. It felt like it was designed to be like that... like Nissan would have liked to have done it from factory but knew they shouldn't, so set it up so you really HAD TO.

Edited by Lithium
Yawn Mentor

Yawn

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah, when first got my car I got bored of the stock power very quickly, leaving me with the same questions as you. If it was really meant to be like that, or if my car had some problem.

Turned out to be coming on boost rather late compared to a friend's GTR. After a thorough inspection, it turned out that the turbo fins were kinda chipped and worn, but still functional.

A change of turbos, ecu, ebc, etc. and with a much lighter wallet, I got a 135rwkw gain at the time, without any extra lag :blink:

When it was stock it was dynoed at 165rwkw :P

Needless to say, I was stoked with 300rwkw, too bad that feeling of contentment didnt last long, or else I would be a much richer person now :blink:

Edited by Yawn
R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted
Turned out to be coming on boost rather late compared to a friend's GTR. After a thorough inspection, it turned out that the turbo fins were kinda chipped and worn, but still functional.

How did you find that out? Removed the piping around the turbo's? Cause i'm experiencing boost loss, wanna fix it asap!

Yawn Mentor

Yawn

Posted
Posted

Basically my mechanics singled that out as the problem from their past experiences and after checking everything else. I didn't actually take anything out to confirm that was definitely the problem.

So i just assumed that was the problem and starting planning for turbo upgrades. Only when the stockies finally came out did I find that out for sure.

But in saying that, I was going to change turbos anyway, so I didn't want to spend unnecessary money just to check if the fins were screwed and then putting everything back on.

SirRacer Experienced

SirRacer

Posted
Posted

Personally i think its suffering from stock car syndrome.

I drove an r33 gtr earlier this year and i found it very slow. I remember mentioning to Lithium on the net later that i was very dissapointed. My s14 was much faster simply due to the weight difference which i think is your problem here also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...