Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i was at the drags wit my mates yesterday wen i noticed my clutch was stuck, lik all the way in!

it didnt come out!...lol

i dropped it from 3 - 3.5grand..all good..went to put it in second and notice my clutch was in still..

u could smell the clutch after..lol..real bad!

but i can drive fine..and doesnt engage randomly..or anything..nothin un-usual..

sometimes i can smell a bit of clutch after driving..or something that smells lik clutch..lol

anyone ever had this problem before??

i believe i still have the stock clutch, and i got 243rwhp..woops!..lol..so it cant take the power or is it somethin else?

clutch master cyl(in engine)?

clutch pedal piston/cyl. (behind the pedal)?

no leaks on either one...

any ideas ??plus after i drive for a while..like good driving..i still smell lik a burning clutch smell..sometimes..

im gona get a new clutch, but i just wana make sure nothin else could b going wrong..

i checked for leaks..and nothin..just a tiny bit of oil round wer the gearbox connects onto the the eninge..but dats always bein der..im gona degress it off..an c it any else comes out..

but cant see anything else..

any ideas, would helps.thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191394-r33-clutch-problems/
Share on other sites

it is all of the above lol

But if it is get stuck from what i know its the clutch line and the clutch also has the dick

243rwhp would be enough to root the clutch

Change it to HD cutch and while your there do the line and the pivot

Could be a number of things

With that HP your clutch should slip at high rpm. If its rooted replace it o/wise just get a heavier p/plate.

i.e. clutch fork stuck on something, retaining spring fallen out, piston in the master cylinder or slave assembly jammed?

Follow the clutch line down the gearbox, it screws into your Clutch slave cylinder. There are two bolts holding that on, unbolt and get a friend to step on the clutch and see if the piston moves in and out freely. If it doesnt, then pull it apart and inspect (a rebuilt kit is $7) so doesnt hurt to try first. If its fine, then its your master cylinder assembly. That can be reco'd aswell but just as cheap/easy to get s/hand on off ebay.

If thats not it you'll need to pull the gearbox out for a little spring loaded piece of wire - the sh^%s!

Could be a number of things

With that HP your clutch should slip at high rpm. If its rooted replace it o/wise just get a heavier p/plate.

i.e. clutch fork stuck on something, retaining spring fallen out, piston in the master cylinder or slave assembly jammed?

Follow the clutch line down the gearbox, it screws into your Clutch slave cylinder. There are two bolts holding that on, unbolt and get a friend to step on the clutch and see if the piston moves in and out freely. If it doesnt, then pull it apart and inspect (a rebuilt kit is $7) so doesnt hurt to try first. If its fine, then its your master cylinder assembly. That can be reco'd aswell but just as cheap/easy to get s/hand on off ebay.

If thats not it you'll need to pull the gearbox out for a little spring loaded piece of wire - the sh^%s!

243rwhp would be enough to root the clutch

243 divided by 1.35 = 180rwkw. i think thats correct...

that isnt much power at all! mine gets that with only a 3" turbo back and a pod! though i havent confirmed whether or not it has a dump pipe, but still.

mind you, i have fried the stock clutch, (doing burnouts). it was very impressive, or at least the smoke was...

because i was povo at the time i replaced with the stock gts-t clutch industries kit. it seems to hold up fine under that power. but id prefer a firmer pedal.

  • 2 weeks later...

found out wat was wrong..

i had one of my rear rims changed to a stockie..

anyways..

a tech. from work told me having different size wheels on a rear wheel drive car,

causes the diff to slip all the time!!

so it was my diff that was burning, and thats wat i could smell!!

thank god i get my rim back 2mrw..

but i also got told the the circumference of the wheel may not cause it slip all the time..

so if it wat nearly the same as the other size rim and tyre together, than it should be ok..

well thats wat another tech believes..

but most techs said that having different size wheels causes the clutch packs inside the diff just

to get over-heated and worn..

so yeah

found my problem..

Edited by bumble_bee

yeah, i dont no about that..

thats still confusing me..

and it hasnt done it ever since that day..maybe it just got stuck/jammed wen i was dropin the clutch??

who knows

but i found out the smell problem..

coz i was concerned about that too..

so atleast thats one problem fixed!!

plus i got my rim back..all good now..

Edited by bumble_bee

the rolling diameter of a 205/65/r15 or stock skyline 16inch size is pretty much the same as a 235/45/r17, so im not really sure that would have caused an issue?

an if theres a smell usually there has to be a leak?....you dont smell the engine oil when it gets hot, nor the gearbox oil if its hot.....so why would you smell the diff? had plenty of mates with worn/slipping LSD's an all that happens is only one wheel spins instead of 2.....no smells....(cept for rubber melting on occasion :ph34r: )

guess you'll soon tell if the smell is now gone

an if your clutch is sticking to the floor id say its something to do with the fluid side of it, normally it sticking to the floor means the slave cylinder is leaking (this is on the side of your gearbox, it pushes the fork that engages the clutch) , but then you'd have no clutch at all cause there'd be no pressure?? strange if it only happened once an not again. Maybe air in the system an it needs to be bled? Best bet is to just get it replaced, they'll soon find the problem one they drive it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...