Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving down the mitchell the other night i was doing 100ish and went to pass someone and as i accelerated after about 3 seconds it just stopped accelerating i still had my accelerator pushed down it was as if i had taken my foot off the accelerator could this be fuel cut? any help would be good.

Edited by WA_R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191438-car-not-accelerating-properly/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sorry guys for the lack of info but its a bit hard to explain, it seems to happen at random intervals and can be in any gear (so far its happened in 1st, 2nd and 5th) and it doesnt matter if the car is hot or cold. i think it happens about 3500-4000 rpm but im not usually looking at my tacho whne it happens ill look next time it does. i dont think its a boost leak but i have a boost leak tester so i will try that on the weekend i was also thinking that i could be my fuel pump. i wouldnt think that i would be coilpacks either cause it seems like the whole engine cuts out (could be all my coilpacks i guess) hope thats enough info.

my r32 is doing the same thing just loses power when accalerating then comes back after a few seconds. ive asked around to see if anyone knows what the deal is and they all keep saying it sounds like my afm has died on me. Its the only thing i havent replaced since this problem has arised. Ive checked for boost leak and cant find any, have changed my fuel filter, cleaned the afm out along with my k & n filter. Might have to look into my coilpacks after reading some posts :thanks:

yeah thanks guys now the big question do i just buy some stock 2nd hand coilpacks and risk the same problem again or should i bite the bullet and go and get some splitfires? also has anyone got or tried the Just Jap coil packs they are only 400 brand new over the splitfires which are 490 brand new what do people think?

If you buy secondhand, whats to say they are not in the same condition....or only last 6 months?

Buy new, that way you know they will work 100%. I use Split fire and have no problem. Dont know about the just jap ones..but for a $90 difference, i would go with the Splitfires.

before you spend the money on coil packs make sure it is the coilpacks first... as it sounds more like a blocked fuel filter to me.I had my coil packs go on me and the symptoms were a little different.when mine went it was great until you had been driving for about half hour,then it would start spluttering and misfiring under harse acceleration.It did it less when the weather was hot but missed a lot in cold weather...hope that helps.

Sorry to chime in on your thread, but i'm having a somewhat similar problem with my R32.

My problem is as follows.

After i've been driving conservatively for a while, if i plant it in 1st, 2nd or 3rd, the fast increase in rpm and boost causes my car the pop and spit like crazy at about 4000rpm and will continue to do so untill i stop accellerating / change gear.

I'm not sure if it's a fuel or an ignition problem. I installed a fuel mixture display kit from Jaycar to see if it was not igniting (rich) or not getting fuel (lean), but the lights just get disco fever.

Running stock fuel pump / injectors.. stock boost.. only thing i've changed recently was installing a fmic, so i'm thinking the increased air flow may be the cause of the issue.. but not sure.

any feedback, suggestions or ideas would be grealy appreciated.

Edited by Wogan

R&R anybody?!!!!!

can you list all your mods?

you would be better off paying for a diagnostic/dyno run than rushing out to get $500 worth of coil packs. . .

In the 2 years Ive had my car, it has:

leaned out from a dirty AFM from Hks mushroom(oiled) filter and a weak fuel pump. ping!!

Hit R&R on the stock computer from too much boost - feels like the brakes are on, it just slows down, but it goes away.

Missed with stock coils at around 4500 rpm (PFC) - like hitting the limiter, it pops and misses etc

sound like one of those?

R&R anybody?!!!!!

can you list all your mods?

you would be better off paying for a diagnostic/dyno run than rushing out to get $500 worth of coil packs. . .

In the 2 years Ive had my car, it has:

leaned out from a dirty AFM from Hks mushroom(oiled) filter and a weak fuel pump. ping!!

Hit R&R on the stock computer from too much boost - feels like the brakes are on, it just slows down, but it goes away.

Missed with stock coils at around 4500 rpm (PFC) - like hitting the limiter, it pops and misses etc

sound like one of those?

yeah sounds like the second one what did you do to fix that? also list of mods, FMIC, k&n filter, 3 inch cat back and manual boost controller

I have a spare R32 RB20DET airflow meter that yas can borrow to see if it fixes the problem. I have a z32 afm in my car now so.. :P

yeah that might be an idea ill go and get a dyno run done and ill let you know how it goes hopefully will get that done next weekend if i can find a place to do it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
    • Car looks clean as. You ended up getting quite a bit done 😂  So what's the plan for the exhaust? 
    • The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.  
    • Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.
    • Do u know how to identify the rods are rb25 or neo ones? Can u look into the pics and tell me is they de or de neo ones. Its confusing becoz my motor has de neo head but block is 25de 75t, so really confusing me about rods, crank.
×
×
  • Create New...