Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals, i've just recently joined the the forums, and I'd like to introduce myself. My name is Roald, but you can all call me Roo.... its easier :)

Now, I don't drive a skyline, but i do have a RB30DET (25/30) in my VL Calais, and I figured this would be a good place to get some good info on the newer nissan tech, as the VL sites i've become accustom to are more 'SOHC oriented'....

I have some Q's regarding my setup etc. but I'll get to them at a later date (studying....)

Looking forward to getting involved,

Regards, Roo ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, so its been a while.... I've been busy finishing my CIT course - flat out!

Here are some pics and info from the prevoius owner. I would have loved to do the conversion myself, but this came along and was far more cost effective :)

Engine

7,000 km's old

3ltr, acid cleaned, crack tested

bored and honed 50 tho to suit oversized pistons,

shot peened rods. New mains, big ends, small ends, balanced etc.

genuine Nissan head gasket

reconditioned RB25DET cylinder head with extra provision for VCT,

ceramic T3 turbo driven only on 6 psi

3inch exhaust with high flow cat

New bosch 910 fuel pump

Custom braided lines for turbo

Nizpro engine bay mounted intercooler

Wiring harness professionally modified to suit vl

Gearbox

R33 turbo 5speed manual box

Pulled down for inspection before fitting

Short shifter

Harness and speedo modified to suit vl

Heavy duty clutch,

shaved flywheel,

Fully balanced and modified drive shaft to suit r33 box

148RWkW and 530Nm on 6 PSI, std. R33 computer :)

Will get more pics up later on some time.

Cheers, Roo

post-43945-1196227870_thumb.jpg

post-43945-1196227880_thumb.jpg

post-43945-1196227887_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3502555
Share on other sites

148rwkw? :huh:

Are you sure that figure is correct? You should be making a lot more than that...

No offence intended.

None taken :) .The reason for such odd Power vs. Torque figures is due to a rather restrictive intercooler. Between about 2100-3300 rpm I have access to full boost (10p.s.i), but by the time I've reached 4500 rpm its all the way back at 6 p.s.i :) You can see on the dyno sheet where the boost really falls off. Once its gets up on the revs, the cooler simply can't flow enough air.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this setup should really start singing at around 4000/4500 rpm, right where its all over....

I'm condisering sending the cooler to Garrett for a recore (Nizpro tanks are good as far as I know?) and getting the turbo high-flowed/steel wheels. Any other recommendations? Will I need a fuel cut defender (sometimes it surges/cuts under boost at lower revs - i.e. full boost to manifold) or rising-rate reg?

Thanks for any input,

Roo

post-43945-1196474552_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3507884
Share on other sites

None taken :P .The reason for such odd Power vs. Torque figures is due to a rather restrictive intercooler. Between about 2100-3300 rpm I have access to full boost (10p.s.i), but by the time I've reached 4500 rpm its all the way back at 6 p.s.i :( You can see on the dyno sheet where the boost really falls off. Once its gets up on the revs, the cooler simply can't flow enough air.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this setup should really start singing at around 4000/4500 rpm, right where its all over....

I'm condisering sending the cooler to Garrett for a recore (Nizpro tanks are good as far as I know?) and getting the turbo high-flowed/steel wheels. Any other recommendations? Will I need a fuel cut defender (sometimes it surges/cuts under boost at lower revs - i.e. full boost to manifold) or rising-rate reg?

Thanks for any input,

Roo

If I may voice my opinion... :)

Well if you want to get the most from your engine set up (RB25 / 30DET) then I would suggest a fairly large low mount turbo such as a Garret GT30 / 82R, dont bother high flowing the one you have.

Im using a GT30 / 71R (slightly smaller than the 82R) and it is good for about 250rwkw, the larger GT30 / 82R will be better for your engine because you have more down low power because of the larger capacity and it will probably spool a larger turbo pretty quick.

If youre going for out right power then you will need a fuel pump - go for a Walbro in tank or Bosch 040. You'll also need to upsize your injectors as the standard ones will max out pretty quick, go for some SARD 550cc brand new squirters, dont bother having the standard ones high flowed.

As for your intercooler, I have been using a Just Jap / Cooling pro 300 x 600 x 76 front mount for a while and Ive never had a problem, I would highly recommend one for the price.

Get in contact with GCG in Sydney for the turbo, Powerflow injection for the pump and injectors and Just Jap for an intercooler.

Im using similar equipment in my RB25DET (550cc injectors, 040 pump, GT30 / 71R and JJR front mount) and my car makes 230rwkw and 550nm at 18psi, very conservative AFR and it has bugger all lag.

:D

post-17958-1196919715_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bullet32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3517303
Share on other sites

Great, thanks for the info :P

For the moment its on hold due to a matter of funds, but I will definitely take your advice into consideration. I have been considering dropping the whole lot into an R32, but again this is more likely to happen later rather than sooner, once I finish my apprenticeship :P

BTW, anyone know what a good R32 rolling shell might be worth, just out of curiosity?

Cheers, Roo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191734-new-act-member/#findComment-3524527
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...