Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppls

ive got a CF bonnet with stupid bonnet pins and i wana take them off but obviously there will be 2 holes. Would it be pretty easy for a place to fix up the 2 holes and then respray it all again ? and assuming they knew what they were doing would i be able to tell it was ever fixed up ? i dunno how CF works..

also how much do you guys rekon a job like that is worth ?? and anyone in melb wana do it for me ??

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191837-cf-bonnet-fixing-holes/
Share on other sites

1) even East bear supply pins and highly recommend you fit them to ensure that the bonnet is fixed and safe from breakages from vibration.

2) any patching of the carbon will show up as the would be no way to match the Weave pattern to hide it, unless you were painting it to match the car and removing the carbon look.

3) patch the holes then get a new sheet of twill set onto the top of the existing bonnet should work onto the gel coat as it sticks to the other side but would be expensive

4) replace the pins with the aerocatch (sp?) the flush mounted pin system - legal i believe

5) wait for someone else to have a better suggestion - think its Noy that works at a carbon place in QLD - name escapes me now

Custom Carbon in queensland is no more

Noy might be able to advise on the hows an whys though

but I think craved is about spot on

has anyone seen the "aerocatch" pins in the flesh they look quite good on the net

sure some of the top secret cars use em to the supra maybe?

aerocatch latches look shit, too big and ugly IMO

thats why i sold mine

great bit of gear but shit looks

you selling yours Anthony was the first palce i saw them...

safety rarely looks good unfortunately

as long as the pins are adjusted low enough there wont be an issue

i use normal pins and have never had an issue with vibration or anything

ive heard heaps of people who use the stock latch complain about the bonnet wanting to fly off

normal pins and a secondary emergency restraint (bit of steel rope with clips or D shackles on either end) will keep everything nice and safe

thanks for all the info :w00t: it sounds like its not worth trying to take em off.

the car is white and has one of them black plastic lips, im thinking maybe ill leave the pins on and paint them either white or black or something. there blue atm.

pins come in different colours, plain silver for me.

the aerocatch ones will need a *big* hole in your bonnet but they look nice and safe and friendly - you won't put a pedestrians eye out with one of them

but normal pins are much easier to open the aerocatch ones are a bit fiddly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...