Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy,

A mates just completed a rb20det manual conversion to his auto s13. Everyting on that front is good, got a wireing harness made up very nice. The car started first time, we took it for a drive around the block and found a water leak so we went back to the shop and fixed that up, went to start it again and it would not fire.

We have changed the coil's, ignitor the engine harness, cas, ecu, tested everything we can think of, we have even just got another wireing harness made up yet still the same problem.

There is heaps of fuel going through the engine theres clouds of it coming out the exhaust pipe, but doesn't want to fire.

Has anyone had a problem similar to this? would be a great help as we have been trying to get this running for over a month.

Cheers in advance

Cameron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191920-rb20det-refuses-to-start/
Share on other sites

a guess, i got my car back was a CA18det, drove it all the way home, turned the car off then tryed to start it again, kept cranking over but was not sparking, and if you have tested the coils and cas and everything like that, maybe you have screwed you spark plugs, that wat happened to mine but then it would happen every time i stopped the car, i fixed the over fueling problem using a dr drift chip, but then the same shit happened again, found out some1 put water in my fuel tank and that was causeing all the problems, so maybe it could be your fuel tank, take out you fuel pump and stick you hand into the tank and feel around see if you can feel any grit (rust) from water, if u can feel rust then it could be that causeing all your problems, worth a shot,

JV

Hi Jv,

Have changed the spark plugs and all the wire looms on the engine. Also the car has a brand new fuel take and walbro fuel pump.

The previous owner of the engine said it used to do this every now and then just refuse to start, but now it doesnt start at all.

Cameron

did you know that before you bought it? or did he tell ya that after this started happening

Funnily enough he never told us it was somsone who knew him, said he was always having trobules you would stop the car and leave it then go start it and it wouldnt but if you left it for a whle it would start, but now it doesnt

We checked the ignition this morning and the coils are firing, we are htinking maybe the injectors are staying open because after cranking it for 10 seconds cloudes of fuel smoke is coming out of the back of the car.

Somehow could they be jammed open? and jsut pooring fuel into the engine?

Timing is spot on the money that was one of the first things we tested when we changed over the CAS

We have done a compression test but can't remember the figures, i think they where pretty low, how low would they need to be to not run?

The weird thing is it started fine then we drove it around the block and found a water leak at the back of the engine which was just one of the water lines which we fixed.

How can the timing go a tooth out theres a locator in the cam shalf and on the CAS drive shaft a half moon shape :S

Edited by murrayis
Howdy,

A mates just completed a rb20det manual conversion to his auto s13. Everyting on that front is good, got a wireing harness made up very nice. The car started first time, we took it for a drive around the block and found a water leak so we went back to the shop and fixed that up, went to start it again and it would not fire.

We have changed the coil's, ignitor the engine harness, cas, ecu, tested everything we can think of, we have even just got another wireing harness made up yet still the same problem.

There is heaps of fuel going through the engine theres clouds of it coming out the exhaust pipe, but doesn't want to fire.

Has anyone had a problem similar to this? would be a great help as we have been trying to get this running for over a month.

Cheers in advance

Cameron

does the engine have spark when u crank it over

have u tried another ecu as u could have a rooted ecu

does pinout 43 have power when u crank over the motor

are the cas sensor /maf sensor/ coil packs gettin 12v power supply in (not from ecu)

does the engine have spark when u crank it over

have u tried another ecu as u could have a rooted ecu

does pinout 43 have power when u crank over the motor

are the cas sensor /maf sensor/ coil packs gettin 12v power supply in (not from ecu)

Hi Boot it,

Yep we changed the ecu to another one out of a working r32 and still the same problem.

Not sure about pin 43 but will check it out.

The cas, maf and coilpacks are all getting 12v while cranking and with ignition on

We have tried alot of things over the last month and its still not firing

Hi Boot it,

Yep we changed the ecu to another one out of a working r32 and still the same problem.

Not sure about pin 43 but will check it out.

The cas, maf and coilpacks are all getting 12v while cranking and with ignition on

We have tried alot of things over the last month and its still not firing

pinout 43 is the start signal to the ecu if it doesnt get that signal the car wont start (as u might have a break in the wire some where

have u made sure pinouts 41 and 42 r getting the 1 degree and 120 degree signals from the cas sensor

Hi Boot it,

Yep we changed the ecu to another one out of a working r32 and still the same problem.

Not sure about pin 43 but will check it out.

The cas, maf and coilpacks are all getting 12v while cranking and with ignition on

We have tried alot of things over the last month and its still not firing

pin 43 is the ignition start signal. to tell the ecu when the car is cranking.

CAS and MAF should only be 5v.

pin 43 is the ignition start signal. to tell the ecu when the car is cranking.

CAS and MAF should only be 5v.

Hi,

I will check these tomorrow, but i suspect they will be working. As we have just put a new loom in to replace the first one we had hopeing the problem was the loom but we still have the same problem.

Cameron

When you say its not starting, is it just constantly winding over? Or does it wind over and occasionally cough and splutter but never start?

My mates CA has an overfueling issue on startup which he gets around by having a switch on his dash to turn the fuel pump off/on. He turns the key to engine on to pressurize the fuel rail then turns the fuel pump off for a couple seconds while starting the engine.

ok we foudn the problem on saturday, when staring at the end of the cam shaft we noticed that the locator key was missing snapped off :S so we changed to a spare cam shaft and lined it all up and away it went fired first time :P

turns out our timing gun was wrong faulty also showing and giving false readings.

so problem solved :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
    • I should video mine, will prob do it tomorrow    Between 1st and 3rd, you could fit another two gears. That is how loose and wobbly it is   horrible:(
×
×
  • Create New...