Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I removed the factory fuel pump from my series 2 and tried to fit a R34 GTR factory pump.

I had a bit of a search and all threads on pump upgrades are for series 1's. They have a different mounting cradle compared to the series 2

Here is a thread with pic's of a series 1 cradle

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t176653.html

Below is a pic of the series 2 craddle. The factory pump is very small, approx half the size of the GTR pump in diameter and length.

The facory series 2 pump mounts inside the plastic box, which works like a swirl pot to prevent stavation.

To get the GTR pump to fit, the lid would have to go and a bit of cutting need to the base to get the pump to fit partly in to hold it in place. I can get the series 2 pick up sock to fit the GTR pump and sit at the bottom of the craddle so it should work.

Can anyone see a problem with removing the lid altogether. Could maybe end up with some fuel starvation on a 1/4 tank around corners?

post-14923-1194007646_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191946-fuel-pump-upgrade-in-a-series-2/
Share on other sites

hey mate i have a spare s1 pump cradle if ya get stuck or bugger ya old one trying to mod it .the thing i have found with my s1 is when the bigger pump was fitted the cradle wouldnt clip in properly and would fall out when ya hit a big bump.i had to put a right angle fitting on the outlet to stop the fuel hose from hitting the side of the tank and not allowing the cradle to clip in . hope this helps mate cheers bernard.

hey darrin in that other thread with the s1 cradle pics i posted im only showing the bottom half of the cradle, usually its got a section that goes around the pump as well but it wont fit when using bigger pumps like 044 and 040, but it definately looks nuthin like your s2 one im pretty sure of that.

Darrin, could you tell me the diameter and length of the S2 pump please. Im also after an upgrade for my S2, probably go the SARD, which is 122mm x 38mm. Probably not a bolt in going off you pics.

Also, what size pump would people recommend 130L, 165L, 200L ? and is a regulator neccesary for a stocko engine ?

thanks

Edited by chook

Attached are saome pic's

The stagea pump is 38mm dia and 90mm long (mainbody, not including the plastic plug bit)

R34 GTR pump is 55mm dia and 105mm long

As you can see there is a big size difference. I can mount the GTR pump with sock in the craddle, but no hope of fitting the lid on

Does the series 1 stagea pump just clip to the bottom of the tank with no anti starvation/swirl baffles around it?

If it does, then the series 2 lid probably is not that important.

Chook, I did see somewhere (maybe on nengun or greenline site), the Sard bumps are Bosch rebadged.

Answer to your question in regards to which flow rate, get a pump to suit your power goal. A pump that flows way too much can have a negative effect, as the excess fuel gets returned to tank and gets heated by the engine bay in the process

post-14923-1194430560_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1194430590_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1194430621_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1194430655_thumb.jpg

darrin, couldnt find any info stating that the Sards were rebadged, you might have thought this because Greenline uses a Bosch photo to represent both Bosch and Sard pumps, but a Sard pump looks different to the photo, and ive also heard a lot quieter than bosch.

Anyway, the R34 Gtt pump flows around 140 l/min, so i assume the S2 stagea is similar, so a good upgrade would be around 165 I feel.

darrin, couldnt find any info stating that the Sards were rebadged, you might have thought this because Greenline uses a Bosch photo to represent both Bosch and Sard pumps, but a Sard pump looks different to the photo, and ive also heard a lot quieter than bosch.

Anyway, the R34 Gtt pump flows around 140 l/min, so i assume the S2 stagea is similar, so a good upgrade would be around 165 I feel. Delivered for around $220 on Nengun.

  • 1 month later...

Got the SARD 165L/min from NENGUN, easiest install ever, pump is slightly longer but same diameter, but fitted perfectly into box, also same wiring plug ! Only hiccup was to swap the factory filter sock over. Looked like the pumps were made by same company, no noise, very pleased.

Edited by chook

I actually got the GTR pump to fit yesterday and got the car running today with new injectors and power FC

I had to hack some of the lid and box to get the pump in. Does not fit totally like the factory pump but will still work.

Hopefully get a tune in a week or two.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there it is trickier. Ecutek seems to be one of those closed ecosystems where everyone password protects their tunes which means I either choose a tuner and can't change from them and can't make any changes myself for any reason, or I have to buy the tuning software (about $4k) and then get someone to tune from scratch (which is not simple with all the multi dimensional tables these days). Once you buy about 300 "flash points" per ECU you can get it tuned and add their "RaceROM" function which hacks extra functionality like launch control onto the ECU, and also makes extra data available for logging over CAN Not sure what I'll do there yet; I'm tempted to use one of the overseas shops that does billions of remote tunes of the platform instead of starting from scratch locally, a lot can be done online these days.
    • Can I log IAT eh? Well, can now So next thing was looking at data logging. Not straight forward because none of the motorsport displays have cracked the nissan/inifinti CAN and ECU based displays don't do g logging, lap timing, predictive laps etc.  So, I bought an Ecutek dongle from Tunehouse (Oz distributor). Even without a tune onboard that allows display and logging of about 50 parameters via Android (and presumably iOS) app. Approx 600 for the bluetooth + Usb version That gives me (pretty ugly but) functional dash display on Android And logging of these parameters I'll play around a bit over the break, but at least now I can make sure I have oil pressure when I get to some track testing.  
    • I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works
    • I reached 10 posts and wanted to make my build thread too but still can't add pictures to posts so I have no idea how it works 😂
×
×
  • Create New...