Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just need some advice, i just swapped a integra for a r33 gts-t and i want to have 300 rwkw on my car. i just wanted to know what do yous reckon the best and cheapest way to do it is and if there are some good web sites for me to have a look on to buy gear the the job ahead

Rossy

Edited by Rossy19
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your new so just bear in mind theres a search function for next time.

and i wouldnt be chasing 300rwk right away as you jumped from an integra to an r33 gtst. do it up slowly and get used to the power. if your intentions are to use it as a street car then good luck getting traction :rofl:

good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3452946
Share on other sites

300kw is a masive amount of power.. I've had my R33 for 3 years now and I'm only pushin 265kw@ wheels and i still have a hard time drivin in the wet..

.. mate honestly, Get a full 3inch turbo back exhaust, FMIC, SAFC or E manage, boost controller and get her tuned to about 200rwKw.....

have fun.. :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3452999
Share on other sites

More like 15-20k but depends on how far you want to go. And as said there's no point wanting that sort of power but still wanting it to be cheap, because it just won't happen.

300kw is a masive amount of power

But its fun though :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453201
Share on other sites

More like 15-20k but depends on how far you want to go. And as said there's no point wanting that sort of power but still wanting it to be cheap, because it just won't happen.

But its fun though :rofl:

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :P. Should be less than 15k :rant:

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453355
Share on other sites

Well there is at least one I know of with 300rwkw, but he knows he can't hold 5th for too long :( Still been going strong for over a year at least though! My engine all up cost me just under 7k btw, it was just a bastard waiting because let's just say it wasn't a planned build lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3453564
Share on other sites

Stock internals would last with 300rwkw if you service it regularly and know how to take care of it with the best 'food' and supporting mods.

Some people blow their internals with 280rwkw some people run 310 rwkw everyday and engine is fine after a year. It all depends on many many various factors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457268
Share on other sites

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :rofl:. Should be less than 15k :)

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :P

+8k for the inevitable rebuild

+1500 for the diff

+1500 tyres (every 12-18months as you shred them)

+2000 - more brakes needed for 300rwkw than gts-t items

And thats just the start :)

Suddenly looking like a 25k adventure to me.

Basically if you cant afford the rebuild, you dont chase more than 250/260rwkw from the RB25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457285
Share on other sites

Can u drive? Also is that wanted number just something to tell the boys about once u have it? or are you actually getting over driving cars with 200-250kws or whatever and u want to move on to something more exciting??

I'm not saying u have, but IF u have just come out of a front wheel drive Integra (no other cars) please start off with a moderately stock manual gts-t...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457895
Share on other sites

Stock internals would last with 300rwkw if you service it regularly and know how to take care of it with the best 'food' and supporting mods.

Some people blow their internals with 280rwkw some people run 310 rwkw everyday and engine is fine after a year. It all depends on many many various factors.

I reckon it depends on how you drive it ^^

yeah 300rwkw sounds good but its pretty dangerous to drive on fr, esp on wet roads, even when launching straight you'll do a snakey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3457927
Share on other sites

200rwkw is pretty fast... let alone 300

remember - there's a difference between 300 actual RWkw's and holden's "300" kw cars

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458182
Share on other sites

200rwkw is pretty fast... let alone 300

remember - there's a difference between 300 actual RWkw's and holden's "300" kw cars

hahah, yeh like 30%. holden's HSV's would be pushing 200 at the wheels from the factory if that. 300rwkw is faaaaast, and not something i'd want to be thrown the keys to short of an intensive driver training course!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458202
Share on other sites

Hmm.. don't think you'll need 15-20k that much.

Injectors 740CC - $800 or so

FMIC - $600

Turbo GT3037 - $1,700 or so

Turbo Kit - $1,000

Fuel Pump - $250

AFM w/ plug - $330

power fc - $1,500

Twin Plate Clutch - $1,800

Coilovers - $1,800

Better Brake Pads - $250

Labour + Tune - $2,000

There you go :P. Should be less than 15k :D

However, how long your engine with stock internals will last with 300 rwkw, i do not know :)

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458578
Share on other sites

hey mate,

dont know you from a bar of soap so not gonna judge you

but i think you're underestimating how much power 300rwkw actually is. Jump into a car with 250rwkw and you will be in for a shock. And when you think that thats quick - 300rwkw will blow you away. its alot of power for a street car, bit of overkill if you ask me - and will take alot of driver skill to keep it from decorating a tree/lightpole/another car.

go stage 1 mods and get 200rwkw first then work your way up. 300rwkw is a far cry from any integra - even type r's

good luck man dont go killing yourself just yet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458582
Share on other sites

I disagree with the use of AFM and PFC , change of clutch and brake pads. Run MAP system with a better ECU, don't use pfc. Also stock clutch will be able to handle 300rwkw just fine, breaks will perform well enough again, let it worn before you change. Need a new fuel pump, boost gauge, intake temp sensor, full exhaust.

Nothing wrong with a PFC at all, it was just an example.

Not sure where you get your info from - a stock clutch will not handle 300rwkw.

Brakes wont perform that well (in my eyes)

Not a chance in the world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191997-300-rwkw/#findComment-3458622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't say I've had a bad experience with one on my car, then again it only gets washed once or twice a year... The wheels on the other hand, get a good spray often due to my shitty dusty pads.
    • @MBS206 thats pretty neat and tidy to me!  I'll get a photo of mine when I'm out there next. It might require multiple photos to understand the scale of the atrocities though... In total I have 4 sheds of varying sizes and layouts. Main shed is 14x8, second shed is 3x8, third shed is 11x2.5, fourth shed is around 6x4.  All are pretty much full.   The main goal of my cleaning tsunami is to make the main shed predominantly car and motorbikes only. Second shed is my metal fab room (2 x bench grinders, drill press, bench belt sander, metal band saw, scrap metal storage and some of my garden tools.  3rd shed is more bigger garden stuff, storage for engine crane, jack stands, concrete grinder, concrete mixer, air compressor lives there, and it now has two 2mx2m pallet racking shelves with itemised boxes holding building stuff, electrical stuff, plumbing stuff, etc, etc.  The 4th shed is Ryobi electric ride on mower, mini boom sprayer, ancient Kubota tractor, more garden stuff!  I have got a lot of shit....  Then there's the pool house (8mx4m) and the pool pump shed (4mx4m).  I built all of the sheds over the 11 years we've been here.  The main shed was a Ranbuild kit, the rest are all custom made to fit the areas available. Building the main shed taught me a LOT as I had no idea about building anything prior to that!  I've still got one more in me. It will be my man cave which I poured the extra concrete for way back when I poured the concrete for the main shed. The idea is the Skyline will be a centre piece of the main cave once (if...) it's finished.  I told my now 14 year old son yesterday that I will 100% drive him to his year 10 formal in 2 years. Still a long way off but at least I now have a date to work towards! 🤣
    • Modern oils are amazing. Add tyres to that as well.
    • Probably a smart choice to buy one vs build, purely for the motivation part as you said! Imagine the metal dust everywhere from grinding all the steel to build one. Ha ha ha!   Also, post a photo of your garage.   Mine is below, this is where I've been cleaning and have already half filled a caged 6*4 trailer. And this is after my cleaning expedition mentioned previously... The middle normally has a car in it, but I'm dumping things in the middle as I sort through them. And poor skyline was dusty and has had the lightest few drops of rain and now it looks atrocious and needs to be dragged back out and washed thoroughly! And yes to the right is technically another bay, you really can only see 2 bays out of 3 in this picture.  
    • It's more like on average the things I see a lot of things going wrong. Yes, usually the people who reach out are the ones who are having problems but on average it feels like mechanics and tuners here aren't really competent. I swing between thinking my standards are just way too high and wondering whether people really are just this dumb. I just had the strangest 10+ reply argument on a Facebook group over someone insisting that the factory R34 GTT boost control solenoid reduces boost pressure to 5 psi when it's on and raises boost pressure to 7 psi when it's off despite showing the exact plumbing in the factory service manual and the solenoid behavior detailed in the FSM.
×
×
  • Create New...