Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SSV in Oakleigh....all the way... got my skyline there even though its non turbo... its the cleanest R33 iv ever seen and a year later no problems whats so ever...

Id chek out some private cars for sale on carsales.com or the for sale section on this forum...

thers a nice Series 2 turbo Black for sale at carsales for like 14k and thats with minor mods like front mount, turbo timer and pod... with a bit of haggling you could drop the price to 13k...

i was interested in buying that car but iv decided to turbo my current engine....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192004-r33-gts-t/#findComment-3466404
Share on other sites

i was interested in buying that car but iv decided to turbo my current engine....
I hope you have done a search and know what you're getting yourself into :(

Personally i would suggest you sell the NA GTS and buy a factory turboed GTST. Too many differences between to two models; slapping a turbo on the side will not give you the same power and handling :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192004-r33-gts-t/#findComment-3466606
Share on other sites

I hope you have done a search and know what you're getting yourself into :(

Personally i would suggest you sell the NA GTS and buy a factory turboed GTST. Too many differences between to two models; slapping a turbo on the side will not give you the same power and handling :P

yeh i have done a fair bit of searching and have a seperate thread for this exact topic on the Naturally Aspirated performance section.

Selling and buying a turbo one will cost me way too much and i know exactly what im getting into.

Chek out the thread for more info anyway... laters

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192004-r33-gts-t/#findComment-3466915
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
×
×
  • Create New...