Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did a quick research on coilpacks change on R34s but there aint any, so i thought id have a go myself :rant:

im no mechnic or anything, still a noobish minded when pull something out the car lol... but i hope this helps

BTW: Thanks to Anthony McGrath's inspiration, i manage to save a few hundred from my pocket :rofl:

but anyway we here we go..

Difficultie: 5/10

Time: 3 Hours including rest..

Tools you need: 8mm socket, 13 mm socket, set of allen keys, pilers or pansy fingers like me :P...mmm and Coilpack :down: deerr..

post-28983-1194075852_thumb.jpgpost-28983-1194075886_thumb.jpg

Step 1

post-28983-1194076063_thumb.jpg

pop da hood, and disconnect the catch can hose, and the hose next to it, and it should look like this

post-28983-1194076182_thumb.jpg

Step 2

post-28983-1194076213_thumb.jpgpost-28983-1194076245_thumb.jpg

Disconnect the breather pip on top of the coilcover, the BIG SILVER PIPE you cant miss it.. and teh socket set will come in use, loosen it up

and shes all good :mad:. and also in the last picture shown theres another pipe underneath, you may have to jiggle with it a bit to get it out,

and if you have pansy fingers like me..youd prob use a good pair of pilers to do the job for you. and the final result should look like this..

post-28983-1194076594_thumb.jpg

Step 3

post-28983-1194076623_thumb.jpgpost-28983-1194076650_thumb.jpg

now unplug all sensor plugs that in the way of removing the coilcover, then remove the cover(mite need a jiggle) and you should be be sweet :)

Step 4

post-28983-1194076679_thumb.jpgpost-28983-1194076722_thumb.jpgpost-28983-1194077845_thumb.jpg

And now just plug out plug in :)

and your done..

Step 5

Break...

post-28983-1194077904_thumb.jpg

Step 6

and now just put everything back together.. BUT BEFORE THAT MAKE SURE YOU"VE CHECKED ALL THE COILS ARE SLOTTED IN PROPERLY :)..

post-28983-1194077999_thumb.jpg

hope this helps :)

post-28983-1194076311_thumb.jpg

post-28983-1194076468_thumb.jpg

post-28983-1194076767_thumb.jpg

post-28983-1194076918_thumb.jpg

post-28983-1194077874_thumb.jpg

post-28983-1194077933_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192015-diy-changing-coilpacks-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

this will definately come in handy later on when i need to do this. thanks for taking the time mate. i think if i did that i'd need a few more breaks in between if you know what i mean :(

Sorry about the confusion, I thought they were meant to have conductor paste/silicone underneath like ignition modules/pc cpu's etc. The paste acts like a conducter/heat exchange and helps draw heat away from your coil packs preventing premature failure.

Im sure ive seen someone put silcone on them, insulation maybe?

my mistake...

  • 2 years later...

Thanks for this. Used it to coat my stocko's as an interim to aftermarket items.

Might add that this is not noob friendly. Being a noob myself it was a slight nightmare lol. Step 2 has about 20 minor steps to it. Also, the breather pipe has a small nipple underneath it with a hose that connects to the boost sensor near the firewall, I didn't see this and pulled and yanked on the breather pipe to get it off and by doing so ripped the end of the hose off!! Found that removing the strut brace was helpful.

Was a good learning point in that I will probably just let a mechanic do it next time lol

Darn, wish I had seen this a week ago before taping up my coil packs and changing the spark plugs, would have saved a lot of head scratching!

chrisR34GTT agree that us noobs could use even more hand-holding :)

Still a great post, thanks for sharing! :P

  • 8 months later...
  • 5 years later...
On 16/06/2010 at 4:37 PM, chrisR34GTT said:

Thanks for this. Used it to coat my stocko's as an interim to aftermarket items.

Might add that this is not noob friendly. Being a noob myself it was a slight nightmare lol. Step 2 has about 20 minor steps to it. Also, the breather pipe has a small nipple underneath it with a hose that connects to the boost sensor near the firewall, I didn't see this and pulled and yanked on the breather pipe to get it off and by doing so ripped the end of the hose off!! Found that removing the strut brace was helpful.

Was a good learning point in that I will probably just let a mechanic do it next time lol

Attempted this last weekend but didn't want to break any of the hoses. 

Definitely a lot more steps to removing the breather pipe towards the back, there's around 5 rubber hoses that are quite fragile. 

Anyone have tips for removing the breather pipe and hoses near there?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...