Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I currently own a non-turbo mkiv supra; its a 3.0L I6 engine for those that don't know.

Anywayz, my fren took me for a drive in his S1 r33 GTS-T (stock) and uh... i knew non-turbo supras were slow but damn the stock r33 killed it. Made me sad :rofl:

My question is!! How are they on fuel though! I've been told it may be similar to my supra, but then again the r33 GTST is turbo so not sure.. If anyone who has had experience with both cars or even any info on it please let me know cuz im very close to purchasing a 96 SII skyline!

THX

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192026-fuel-consumpution-of-r33-gtsts/
Share on other sites

Hey guys

I currently own a non-turbo mkiv supra; its a 3.0L I6 engine for those that don't know.

Anywayz, my fren took me for a drive in his S1 r33 GTS-T (stock) and uh... i knew non-turbo supras were slow but damn the stock r33 killed it. Made me sad :rofl:

My question is!! How are they on fuel though! I've been told it may be similar to my supra, but then again the r33 GTST is turbo so not sure.. If anyone who has had experience with both cars or even any info on it please let me know cuz im very close to purchasing a 96 SII skyline!

THX

i quite often get 450ks out of a tank b4 the red light comes on thats about 58 litres at a rough guess . mine has fmic pod filter full exaust and running 10 pound its a auto as well .

I suggest you do a search, as this topic has been covered 100 times.

However, fuel wise the Skyline and the Supra would be similiar... and don't forget, the Skyline is turbo-charged, so of course it will kill the N/A Supra.

I think you should absolutely purchase a Skyline - it does drink petrol but not too much more than the Supra and think of the punch you'll get.

I suggest you do a search, as this topic has been covered 100 times.

However, fuel wise the Skyline and the Supra would be similiar... and don't forget, the Skyline is turbo-charged, so of course it will kill the N/A Supra.

I think you should absolutely purchase a Skyline - it does drink petrol but not too much more than the Supra and think of the punch you'll get.

You will be surprised how quick NA supras are, infact out of the factory they do around 6.9 seconds to a 100 km/h.

worst i got was something like 300km in 55 ltrs, usually get around 400 in 58ltrs (driving on the roads and not track)

at the track, it was considerably worse

And N/A supras arent slow, infact they are pretty quick for a standard car.

worst i got was something like 300km in 55 ltrs, usually get around 400 in 58ltrs (driving on the roads and not track)

at the track, it was considerably worse

And N/A supras arent slow, infact they are pretty quick for a standard car.

Well yeah they're def not 'slow', maybe its the hard suspension making it feel slower or the weight, but compared to how it felt to the skyline, there was a pretty big difference for me :(

I guess I will have to find another car because even the supra is too much $$$ for a student like me T_T... hello integra Type-R's ;):)

You will be surprised how quick NA supras are, infact out of the factory they do around 6.9 seconds to a 100 km/h.

Fair point mate, but think of their big arse ... all relative, I suppose. :)

Well yeah they're def not 'slow', maybe its the hard suspension making it feel slower or the weight, but compared to how it felt to the skyline, there was a pretty big difference for me :)

I guess I will have to find another car because even the supra is too much $$$ for a student like me T_T... hello integra Type-R's :D:ninja:

Dont kid yourself dude. Honda is just as expensive as a Skyline or Supra to run. Their parts cost shit loads and service too.

PS after some serious experience driving your turby car you will come to get some decent kms out of the car, 400 ish max.. these guys are full of shit with more than 450kms unless they are idling down hills with tail winds the hole time.

if you dont ever flog it, keep the hole car in good nick, refresh your engy and regrease bearing etc and get some awsome tune with some aftermarket ecu replacement you will be reaching than 400 but 400 is your average with some in the tank left.. (read stuff all) be prepared to see closer to 300 kms per tank mixed driving, ie occasional minor squirt up to speed coming onto freeway or over taking. No one runs their's dry to find out so there some guestimation involved in thier numbers.

open her up she will drink your wallet like most performance enhanced vehicles.

ref 33t

you arent buying this car for its fuel economy though are you, the more power you want the more the thing drinks fuel. more power equal more fuel to make that power eh.

GTS4 dreamer......you're dreaming. :teehee:

I've got less than 400km from a tank maybe 2 or 3 times in 18months. I've been close to 400km, but I average 450km. I have done 512km to a tank, which was around 80% highway. (Aircon used very little btw.)

This is with a manual 96 GTST with 9.5psi, SAFCII (seat of pants tune), full exhaust, R34 SMIC on BP ultimate. With SK suspension on 235/45/17 Federal 595.

Driving mostly around Brisbane including some peak hour, live at west end (so yes it's sees traffic), and only occasionally giving it the bootfull.

So GTST4 perhaps it's your 4wd drivetrain that sucks your economy, or you drive harder than most, or you need a new O2 sensor?

P.S. I would't call a logbook of 5811km of driving a guestimate :P

But then I achieve under 7L/100km in a Clio Sport around town.

Edited by simpletool

I have done the log books, avg 400kms... I have to admit.. allot of traffic idling.

97 s2 manual with a crappy active diff.

new plugs, tested o2 sensor which is about a year old. running greddy ultimate, funky fmic setup full 3" exh, a crappy fuel pump with no low setting, stock inj and a turbo that should have blown by now if it was stoc but it hasnt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
×
×
  • Create New...