R32 Alignment Settings

[simmyb]

looking for some advice on some settings for as r32 gtst. caster, camber, toe, etc...

have tien super streets aussie spec, with urethan bushes all round.

camber is unadustable and set to around neg 3.5 degrees.

i have gtr rear sway bar, and adjustable front caster arms.

looking for a track orientated setup

[Rekin]

sydneykids recommendations;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t85591.html

[BHDave]

Those are street alignment settings. other than the ride heights they will be a bit ordinary on the track.

It doesn't matter anyway as this guy doesn't have the adjustability in his current suspension to do that.

simmy, any setup you do at the moment will be a bit of a compromise. Do you mean the front camber is non adjustable?

Anyway, start with the front and rear heights. around 350mm center to guard front and rear, someone else will be able to confirm the exact heights. I just don't remember them as they dont really apply to my car anymore due to roll center adjusters and various other crap i've installed.

with that sort of front camber you will need to be running semi slicks to take advantage of it. If you won't be running semis then it's worth trying to reduce it to about 2.5 degrees to start You also have minimal factory rear camber adjustment, you want to try and get around 1.5 degrees camber on the rear for semis, about 1 for street tyres any less and you will be rolling the tyre over and not getting drive out of corners/tending to oversteer. You can play with toe in on the rear to try and combat this a bit. Start with about 2mm total toe in on the rear and go from there.

The over steer on corner exit will be compounded by you only having the gtr rear bar so the car will tend to be a bit oversteery. I'd start with 0 toe on the front to start with and see what the car does on turn in. If it is understeering start to add toe out, if it is oversteering ideally you need to do something with the swaybars and rear camber.

Ideally you want caster around the 5-6 region for track (apparently). I still run a lot more than that as i just prefer how it feels atm as i have run closer to 8 degrees for years now.

[ZENNON]

camber is unadustable and set to around neg 3.5 degrees.

interesting... both how its so much and how its not adjustable...

i have a r32 gtst and do a track day every one and then...

have my camber set to around negative 2

[FLY-4DR]

Those being the street settings....does any one have the specs for more track based?...

Im looking at doin a track day,

And sway bars?....tell all...i dont know much about them...im guessing up grading them will help alot...wat type?...

Should i also being go strut tower braces?

[ZENNON]

Those being the street settings....does any one have the specs for more track based?...

Im looking at doin a track day,

And sway bars?....tell all...i dont know much about them...im guessing up grading them will help alot...wat type?...

Should i also being go strut tower braces?

How many track days? You seem to be taking it very serious...

Have you tried with your current setup before spending $$$$$?

ps i got a strut brace out of a gtr32 and it didn't seem to do too much to be honest

(might be due to the fact that my car is already very low/hard/stiff :shrugs:)

[ZENNON]

if you really are very serious and really wanna spend money you could try asking giant what their setup is... they have a pretty serious r32 gtr

(more info on their car maybe look at: Tsukuba Race Prep)

[FLY-4DR]

yea i know....its a bit of a rivalary between my wit my 32and a my mates in their 180's...I didnt think sway bars were overly expensive anywayz...

i have a bit of suspension in allready looking for the race spec....spec so i can go and get the settings done

[ZENNON]

what state you in? where you going racing?

[MrStabby]

camber is unadustable and set to around neg 3.5 degrees.

My car was like that, is your car very low? mine was 330mm wheel centerline to guard. I stuffed around getting adjustable arms and then just realised it sucked being that low and got it raised (springs reset, my teins arent height adjustable).

And sway bars?....tell all...i dont know much about them...im guessing up grading them will help alot...wat type?...

Should i also being go strut tower braces?

After getting the alignment sorted, swaybars are next thing to get. Cheap, easy to install, no real downside, and make a big difference. i got the whiteline adjustables from SydneyKid's group buy, and tuned them to what i wanted at the track, because they're easy to adjust. Read salad's Suspension/handling Articles sticky for how to set them up. Huge difference on my car.

Front strut tower braces are useful to stop flex and keep the geometry good. Rears are a waste of money as the rear suspension has a rigid subframe that the suspension arms mount onto, so cant flex appreciably.

[GTRNUR]

Just so I am clear on how to do my setup then...

With street tyres (SO3's)

Fronts will be 2.5 degrees camber, 7 degress caster, 0 toe.

Rears will be 1 degree camber, 2mm toe

With semi slicks (RE55's)

Fronts will be 3-3.5 camber, 7-8 caster and 0 toe

Rears will be 1.5 camber and 2mm toe

Does an a GTR need different rear camber settings to a 2wd skyline? I figure with a GTR on a tight track your not necessarily wanting a lot of camber to gain more rear end traction. If you can get the back to come around a little and steer with the throttle using power oversteer.

Any thoughts?

[iz32]

any hints on front and rear stabiliser bar settings guys?

or does the spring rate play a big role in determining this setting?

[BHDave]

it's a bit hit and miss as the spring rates will effect it.

I start both on the softest setting and go from there. If it understeers (it probably will) then tighten the rear. If it oversteers then tighten the front.

Thats all there is to it. It's all fine tuning to suit your preferences.

[Roy]

BHDave is on the money.

I will add, just go and get a wheel alignment to make sure everything is where it shoudl be. Doint worry about camber and castor etc too much. As long as the tow settings are 0 at the front and between 1-2mm total at the rear, then just get out there and see how the car goes with the tyres you are running.

If you are serious then you will make a decision on what tyre you are going to run and then start to set the car up for that tyre. If you are running road tyres then dont get too stressed about camber etc as you wont get enough grip out of the tyre to really need a lot.

So, just give it a punt, see how you go. Oh, and as you have the Teins then i woudl suggest you get the ride heights all sorted as that shoudl be the first thing set before you start playign with alignments etc. Wrong ride heights can ruin a cars handlign, braking, power down etc.

What state are you in?

[iz32]

sorry for another hijack but its R32 circuit handling relevant

I fit the rear adjustable stabilizer bar tonite and tried both settings on a few different road conditions etc and on hard it made a world of difference (cusco 7kg front 5kg rear spring rates btw) im in 2 minds whether the front is neccesary now as it handles great.

the front tires feel as tho they are being 'pushed' a little before i feel some oversteer coming on

tires?

ride height? (rear is a little higher then the front at the moment)

should i try adjustable caster?

[Sydneykid]

sorry for another hijack but its R32 circuit handling relevant

I fit the rear adjustable stabilizer bar tonite and tried both settings on a few different road conditions etc and on hard it made a world of difference (cusco 7kg front 5kg rear spring rates btw) im in 2 minds whether the front is neccesary now as it handles great.

the front tires feel as tho they are being 'pushed' a little before i feel some oversteer coming on

tires?

ride height? (rear is a little higher then the front at the moment)

should i try adjustable caster?

The spring rates are too high, so you will need to be carefull with how much anti roll you use. What diameter swaybars do you have?

Skylines never have enough caster, so it is always worth doing.

Don't be fooled by the guard heights. the rear guards are cut 15 lower than the fronts. Around 10 mm a rake (nose down) is best, measured at the sills, just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheels. That usually means 10 mm lower rear hight (centre of wheel to guard) than the front. For 2wd's around 350 mm front and 340 rear is a good place to start. For 4wd's around 355 mm front and 345 rear is the go.

Cheers

Gary

[CEF11E]

it all comes back to handling...

I am going to change the setup on my car and was thinking of the following

front

+8 castor

-1.5 camber

+2 total toe out

rear

0 deg camber

0 deg toe

change cradle to max squat.

the car has bilstiens, kinksprings, whiteline adjustable swaybar, alloy subframe bushes, 2 way mechanical, all urethane bushes. and has been set up for street with drift meets on the weekend.

now that the 30det has gone in it breaks traction far to easily and needs to be altered to chieve more traction.

best way i can think of doing it would be 0 toe and 0 camber on the back and change the angle of the rear cradle. am i heading in the right direction?

[ZENNON]

The spring rates are too high, so you will need to be carefull with how much anti roll you use. What diameter swaybars do you have?

Skylines never have enough caster, so it is always worth doing.

Don't be fooled by the guard heights. the rear guards are cut 15 lower than the fronts. Around 10 mm a rake (nose down) is best, measured at the sills, just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheels. That usually means 10 mm lower rear hight (centre of wheel to guard) than the front. For 2wd's around 350 mm front and 340 rear is a good place to start. For 4wd's around 355 mm front and 345 rear is the go.

Cheers

Gary

Hey Gary,

I dont have adjustable camber arms in the rear and have too much camber so was quite interested when I saw you saying this

Have adjustable teins so keen to adjust (read: raise) ride height. Have a r32 gtst so just to confirm: measure from sill to ground as in picture:

(sills are quite squashed on my car so bit unsure how accurate it would be doing it this way... )

Cheers,

Zennon

[djr81]

Hey Gary,

I dont have adjustable camber arms in the rear and have too much camber so was quite interested when I saw you saying this

Have adjustable teins so keen to adjust (read: raise) ride height. Have a r32 gtst so just to confirm: measure from sill to ground as in picture:

(sills are quite squashed on my car so bit unsure how accurate it would be doing it this way... )

Cheers,

Zennon

The measurement is from the centre of your rim to the guard. What you have shown is wrong.

[ZENNON]

The measurement is from the centre of your rim to the guard. What you have shown is wrong.

haha - sorry - bit early in the morning for me - that didn't make any sense did it - would be more like a 4wd then!

so something like this hey... sounds like ill have something to do on the weekend!

like this better cos i dont have to use sills...

so measure to the very lowest part of the guard correct?

(edit: so not like up into the plastic behind the guard)