Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

I've got a bit of a puzzle. I've got a GTS25t and I would like a place to mount my 2" boost gauge that is easy for me to read while driving, but can't be seen (or at least is very discreet) from outside. Right now I have it mounted low-down next to my left leg, which is nice and discreet, but it's really hard to read when it matters and I keep knocking it with my leg - so it requires constant adjustment.

Here's some of the things I've thought about:

Remove the clock and place the gauge in the space where the clock used to be

The problem with this is that the gauge is slightly bigger than the clock, so a professional looking job might not be easy. Plus, all the clock adjustment buttons would be empty - which would suck.

Remove the compartment under the stereo and replace it with a gauge panel.

This has a similar problem to where I have it now in that you have to take your eyes off the road to read the gauges.

I really want to avoid dash-mounted pods and pillar-mounts, the idea is I want a stock look from the outside. Has anyone here attempted something similar or have any tips for doing a decent job?

Cheers all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192314-discreet-places-to-mount-gauges/
Share on other sites

remove the right hand side drivers vent next to the side mirror, make a piece of mdf to suit the vent shape and mount the gauge there, maintains a reltivly standard look and gauge isnt mounted above the dash.

hey mate, the place under the stereo sounds best if you dont want to pay much for a pro to do it.. what bout a single gauge pod and put it low down on the a-pillar...i kno u said u dont want it to be seen from the outside but yeh..

just my 2 cents

hey mate, the place under the stereo sounds best if you dont want to pay much for a pro to do it.. what bout a single gauge pod and put it low down on the a-pillar...i kno u said u dont want it to be seen from the outside but yeh..

just my 2 cents

Thanks Trent. I'm not fussed about paying to have it done, but that said, I do enjoy doing it myself if I can. I'm still thinking that the bit under the stereo is best. Actually instead of facing them forward, if I made it up with some fiberglass, I could angle the gauges up and toward the driver - to ease reading.

Here is the setup i am running.

Fibreglassed a shell for the boost guage near the steering wheel.

demister and hazard lights are in the centre console panel. Window controls under the dash.

still to be painted though

post-5157-1194257284_thumb.jpg

Here is the setup i am running.

Fibreglassed a shell for the boost guage near the steering wheel.

demister and hazard lights are in the centre console panel. Window controls under the dash.

still to be painted though

Nice work Craved. I haven't done a whole lot of fiberglass work before, but I am pernicity and persistent. How long did it take you?

Nice work Craved. I haven't done a whole lot of fiberglass work before, but I am pernicity and persistent. How long did it take you?

about an hour i guess, was done bit by bit

the guage for boost is the large autometre type. .. which the old coke cans were the same size, so i used one as a mold for making the guage cup.

then cut it down and glassed it into the dash piece.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
×
×
  • Create New...