Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you guys think an r33 is good for track work or would an r32 be better.

wats the weight difference. I understand the r33 has more power and torque to compensate for the weight but I just dont know if its worth spending the money on setting it up or not, in saying that im not going to be spending a crazy amount just enough so I can go out and have fun, but still be able to compete with my mates???

Sorry im sure this has been asked befor, but coulnt find anything. and I dont want a combat between r32 and r33 owners...just the real facts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192375-r33-on-track-or-r32/
Share on other sites

89 R32 GTST = 1290kg

92 R32 GTST = 1320kg

R33 GTST = 1380kg (I think)

essentially, you are looking at a weight difference of 60-90kg.

in return, you are getting the toughest gearbox in the nissan family.

500cc extra.

extra 0.5 compression

a fair bit more torque.

and Larger brake discs.

Suspension set up for both cars costs the same.

Only thing left to make the decision is Looks.

the other thing is that there are alot of series 1 R33's that are the same price or lower than most R32 gtst prices.

really comes down to what parts your going to put on the car, for the track. not so much a comparison between cars.

i mean im sure by now, out of all the 32 and 33 battle threads that we all know what the differences are.

yeah, I know there are other threads about this but havent been able to find out anything to help me out...I have a r33, basically stock and will be putting coilovers and good brakes on it also have a set of enkei 17" wheels with semi slicks.

the reason for my question is my mates have r32's and I have driven them on the track and it was great. I just dont want to do this to my car and then get out there and it feels like im throwing around a boat compared to the r32's. but with coil overs it should be good...yeah???

ia there anything else I should look at doing before going out, keeping in mind im just there having fun with mates...not after the quickest time for the track.

i've got r33.

FMIC

3.5 " exhaust

pod Filter boxed with cold air flow into it

10psi

semi slicks

as said above will be getting coilovers and good breaks.

yeah, I know there are other threads about this but havent been able to find out anything to help me out...I have a r33, basically stock and will be putting coilovers and good brakes on it also have a set of enkei 17" wheels with semi slicks.

the reason for my question is my mates have r32's and I have driven them on the track and it was great. I just dont want to do this to my car and then get out there and it feels like im throwing around a boat compared to the r32's. but with coil overs it should be good...yeah???

ia there anything else I should look at doing before going out, keeping in mind im just there having fun with mates...not after the quickest time for the track.

i've got r33.

FMIC

3.5 " exhaust

pod Filter boxed with cold air flow into it

10psi

semi slicks

as said above will be getting coilovers and good breaks.

If you were out trying to get every last poofteenth out of the car for lap times, then yes.

Lightest weight body would be the best choice.

but 70kg difference will not upset you that much.

especially if you are out there to have some fun.

not only that, the R33 would be better coming out of corners due to the fact that it has more torque.

the mods you have are fine for fun track days.

don't go over that 10psi.

always put new brake fluid in before the track day.

new oil and filter (make sure you have oil slightly over the full mark)

new Pads if required.

Check coolant level too.

your car with those mods would be making about 160-170rwkw.

R32 would require 14psi to make that sort of power with same mods.

of course you wouldn't run that level of boost on the road let alone on a track where it's constantly up it..

so you "SHOULD" (everything else being equal) have a better track car than an R32.

and this is from a Whale hater.

if you already have the R33, stick with it.

the coilovers alone will transform the car to something you have never known.

coilover and those semi slicks with a bit of heat in to them, and Good Brake setup (new fluid and pads)

you'll have a ball.

get sway bars & some caster and camber adjusters.

depending on your budget, theres always more to do. Ive done a shitload already and I look at what I can do next....and the list keeps going.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...