Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you cant always blame the fuel because your car pinged you have to try and factor in all the invariables

my car occasionally pings but I'm running 12.5-13 psi on a stock ECU

when it pings the weather is normally a bit warmer too

Due to price of this fuel i think i'd be better off with BP too... i've got the bp mastercard as well so it's worth it.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I've always used the Shell premium / Vpower, no worries. BP's in my area are always up at least 5c more on Ultimate compared to Vpower at Shell across the other side of my suburb!

Edited by MSPEC33
I've always used the Shell premium / Vpower, no worries. BP's in my area are always up at least 5c more on Ultimate compared to Vpower at Shell across the other side of my suburb!

Your prob wasting that 5c per litre saving driving "over to the other side of your suburb"

Ive only ever used Ultimate, thats what my car is tuned on so thats what i run!!!

i have always used BP ultimate and never had a problem with it....i have tried the shell Vpower for a while and the BP ultimate for me last longer then the Vpower and there isnt a huge difference but just because there is a BP near me i use the ultimate.....

the 94 product is just unleaded (91 RON) + ethanol = 94 RON

the 98 product is just premium unleaded (95 RON) + ethanol = 98 RON

if they added ethanol to 98 you get 100 RON or thereabouts

the ethanol adds 2-4 RON

regards

Jason

Your prob wasting that 5c per litre saving driving "over to the other side of your suburb"

Ive only ever used Ultimate, thats what my car is tuned on so thats what i run!!!

Yeah Deluxe, and my car was tuned on cat piss. I better stop going to shell hey.

Are you seriously that uptight about your fuel?

Edited by MSPEC33
Yeah Deluxe, and my car was tuned on cat piss. I better stop going to shell hey.

Are you seriously that uptight about your fuel?

There is a very good reason to be uptight about fuel used.

If the car is tuned for regular 98ron fuel and you go dropping an ethenol blend in it the car will lean out; egt's will raise, the motor will possibly ping/detonate or throw that ceramic turbine wheel.

I have had the odd tank of Mobil 98 that has shown higher levels of det when the car was previously tuned much closer to the det threshold. Dangerman4 actually saw less det with shell vpower.

For a car that is tuned right to the edge it is I think a wise idea to stick to a given brand of petrol.

im always gonna use BP Ultimate

when i first got the car i was using BP, then a couple of months later went to Shell V-Power, i lost 7 kW by using V-power, so i went straight back to BP ultimate, the car wasnt too happy for the first couple of tank fulls, but sorted itself out, and now i wont use anything else but BP. the car is now tuned on it + Justice Brothers Octane Booster

f**k oath im the same, only ever run the one fuel that being ultimate, i will keep driving until i find a bp

i drive from mclaren vale to christies beach to get bp :thumbsup:

bipass the shell in mclaren vale and liberty on victor/south road to get there

Yeah Deluxe, and my car was tuned on cat piss. I better stop going to shell hey.

Are you seriously that uptight about your fuel?

Nah not at all, Have paid upto $1.46 for premium the other week! But what you said is like finding $5 in your bedroom and going "sweet i'm gonna go drive to the servo and put $5 petrol in and drive home" Pointless........

But yeh as Joel says, its what your car is tuned on is whats best for it, But a regularly used servo is also the key, the fresher the fuel the better for it, besides the cops use Mobil, so thats outa the question.... :)

interesting points!

Lucky for me, my motor has never suffered pinging or detonation. I've filled my car up with several types of premium except for liberty's/united's.

I have had my 33 for 6 years though... So call me experimental; i've been lucky to never cop a bad dose of premium juice, whether it be Shell, Caltex, Mobil or BP.

will take these suggestions into consideration! :worship:

MSPEC33,

Within the 6years and 180,000km's of owning mine I've only ever had one noticeably bad batch of fuel; happened to be Mobil 8000.

Pinging was audible; similiar as to how it ran with 95ron so at a guess I suspect they dropped the wrong fuel in to the incorrect tank.

At the time the car was still on the stock ecu and running 1bar.

moderate mods sinista, nothing too mental.

yeah i remember that fuel Cubes, was the purple pump with the 'Synergy' label wasnt it?

before BP ultimate was widely available like today with all the 'on the run' servos, it was actually the Mobil 'synergy' premium that a lot of people reccommended!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...