Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I've installed front s14 lower control arms. And my alignment is way off. I can't keep the car straight with this kind \ / of toe out.

How the hell did that happen ? How should I correct it ?

Ahh, and I got stock front shocks in front now. Waiting for my leaky front coilover with adjustable camber top to return.

Anyone had similiar problems ?

Thanks!

wait sorry... dis is a 5 stud conversion rite? so u got front s14/15 hubs.

u need 2 get da s14 lca's pushed out and have 'whiteline' push in ur s13/a31 lca's

:D

oh unless u like alot of camber(can be gud for oversteering/under/grip etc depending on set up) and bad tyre wear?

yea that wud be it. :P

as far as i know it cud be the steering rack conection, not bolted/screwed all da way in the female bit, or screwed in too much?

coz its seems the same wen we were doing my mates hi-cas lock bar install.aka wen it wasnt screwed all the way in etc.

ur female steering rack connector mite be too deep, compared to the a31/s13 one that mite be shorter

let me no if u dont get me :thumbsup: i'll make up a diagram :P

LOL

u need a wheel alignment dude, you cant expect to change a major susp component to a longer one and not effect the alignment. Your best bet is to wind the tie rods out on BOTH SIDES 7 full turns (put a mark on the top and count the rotations) this should bring it back to stockish.

mine was toeing out ridiculasly when i did my 5 stud conversion (with s14 LCA), wound in the tie rods by *sight* and chucked it on the wheel aligner at work and had near 0 toe either side :D doubt if id be able to do it again lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's your first born doing? 😛 As for now what? Time to forget about it for 12 to 18 months while your go down a totally unrelated rabbit hole... 😛
    • Fuse taps are perfectly fine to use, especially when you're adding stuff for your own car, and so long as you're being smart about it. IE, don't throw a 30amp circuit, onto a circuit that is only a small circuit. It's best to add a small circuit, to one that is already quite large. Oh, and make sure you're not going to blow the fuses that are further upstream too! I dislike their use in other applications, such as alarms, telematics/tracking devices etc, as it's far too easy for someone to unplug them and render a system useless. Those sorts of devices I go for wiring in quite secretively.
    • Fob is all cleaned up and it’s working well!! The amount of Vegemite looking sh*t that was in there is mind blowing 
    • Given it is temporary, I bought a  cheapy gauge mount (which has become enflattened) which I will screw into the existing phone mount Also a first for me; given this is a temporary install I could not think of any reason not to use one of those "add a fuse" thingies to source the battery and IGN power. I had always figured they were pretty dodgy but having a good look at them I think they are a valid option for sourcing power from an existing source without cutting 
    • Finally for now, a bit more work on the transmission temp gauge. I was wondering how Raceworks do a gauge for $100 that autometer want $500 for. No idea about the accuracy of course, but they have cut a few corners that made things hard.  First one I mentioned above, the sender is physically difficult to fit and doesn't work with their own adapters (the extra fittings I used to get the sender into a hose cost more than the whole gauge, lucky I had stuff in the shed) Second, the temp sender wires are way too short. They are shown as 2.7m on the box and I know my routing was long from navigator headlight to driver's firewall back to centre console, but I had to lengthen them by about 2m total - 2 joins in each wire. Also, same with the supplied power loom, they needed about an extra 1m to get the fuse box where I sourced power. Another join in each wire since one end wasn't supplied terminated. I know they could argue that the wires might be long enough depending on situation, but when you consider parts and particularly labour, it would be a very expensive cheap gauge if you can't do the work yourself. And, only a small issue....but it would have been nice if they remembered to tap a tread onto *both* spacers they supplied for the bracket....I haven't had to use the M4 tap often!
×
×
  • Create New...