Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ntk & Nissan Lambda Sensors (o2 Sensors)

Transaction Instructions:

Any item below with a x-click-but22.gif beside it can be purchased directly from our website. However if you are a new customer be sure to first create an account, the registration form can be found here. Upon making an account please send me a private message with your email address and I'll update your account to the SAU discount structure. Once you have received confirmation that your account has been updated you are ready to proceed.

*Please be aware that until your account is updated to the SAU pricing structure you will see retail prices.

NTK

80.jpg

Status: In Stock

Applications:

Nissan Cefiro A31 (RB20DET): $77.00ea x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Laurel C33 (RB20DET): $77.00ea x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t, GTS-4: $77.00ea x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25-t: $77.00ea x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (Rear Sensor): $143.00ea x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Silvia/200SX S13 (SR20DET Engine): $143.00 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Silvia/200SX S14 (SR20DET Engine): $143.00 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Silvia/200SX S15 (SR20DET Engine): $77.00 x-click-but22.gif

*Please note the R32 GTR rear unit is only available as a genuine Nissan item, listed below

Genuine Nissan

Status: In Stock

Applications:

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (Front Sensor): $182.85 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R32 GTR (Rear Sensor): $195.75 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R34 GT & GT-t: $140.00 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R33/34 GTR & Stagea 260RS (Front Sensor): $175.00 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Skyline R33/34 GTR & Stagea 260RS (Rear Sensor): $195.00 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan 180SX/Silvia S13 (SR20DET Engine): $195.75 x-click-but22.gif

Nissan Silvia/200SX S14 (SR20DET Engine): $195.75 x-click-but22.gif

  • 2 years later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
×
×
  • Create New...