Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Comparison Charts And Power Fc Afr Lookup Chart

BOOSTD

By BOOSTD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Map rescale tool- enables utilisation of the entire map. (no more tuning for one boost level)

Map Calc- takes your Wideband AFR info and outputs a correction value for quick and easy tuning. Also includes a cell hit table to get rid of bogus AFR values.

post-2338-1194494766_thumb.jpg

post-2338-1194845405_thumb.jpg

Edited by BOOSTD
BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
RB"s love 12's :)

Sorry, a missunderstanding. (just a tuning aid guide) Every setup is different. From load point 11 onward I would tune anywere from 12.3 -11.6

I have currently tuned for:

Inj

1.6bar Max load point 14, AFR 12.0-12.1

1.8bar Max load point 15, AFR 11.7-11.9

2.0bar Max Load point 16, AFR 11.2-11.4

Ign

30% Toluene load point 5-10 +7 degree's

load point 10-20 +6 degrees's

I also have an excel spreedsheet with has a database that I use with Datalogit to cut and past Wide Band AFR logging and outputs a corrected map in reference to a Target AFR map. Looking into making this automatic. Will post up soon.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
would you tune a rb on 30psi on 12's?

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :)

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :thumbsup:

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

dangerman4 Mentor

dangerman4

Posted
Posted
for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :(

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

Do you tune for a living DANGERMAN4??

we are not talking martins tunes alone here, it just happens to be one of his... many top level tuners delve far leaner than 12 and 12.5. look at le mans cars etc

i also plainly said on cusomers cars they will get the plain jane tune, mates though always get the more agressive tunes as thier cars are well know by me therefore i am more able to exploit them safely..... never ever lost or hurt an engine.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :P

BOOSTD Mentor

BOOSTD

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :D

Roger, Roger..this is definately an area I haven't had much experience in.

HKS 2510, 2530, 2540 Comparison Dyno Chart Added on 2nd post (272Cams)

Still have the Excel files to add for you guys if I can work out how...............

Edited by BOOSTD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RA708
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By RA708 · Posted

      Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • MBS206
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • GTSBoy
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Duncan
      R33 general questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...