Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was about to post in the other BOV post that everyone was whoring but it seems like it was closed.

I want to know if there is any way to check if the stock GTR BOVs are leaking or not?

I have recently had my turbos re-built (aftermarket ones) and the point of a BOV is to save the turbo so I thought I'd better get this checked out.

If leaking, is it better off to get a new aftermarket plumpback, go to Nissan and ask for OEM parts or if possible, re-build the BOVs?

Thanks in advanced.

Danny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192986-another-bov-question/
Share on other sites

dont know what sorta boost there good for but i heard the GTR blow off's were better than any aftermarket ones.. when there working your less likely to have a 'leaking' blow off by using stockers aposed to aftermarket ones..

if there leaking your car would be running like poo on idle and/or wouldnt boost properly.. youd be able to notice it anyway im pritty sure

Pretty easy to check, just take off the piping the BOV's are on, block both ends, add a tyre valve to pressurize the section of pipe and run the vac line to a nipple on the section of pipe. Now add compressed air, if it's fckd you will hear lots air coming out the BOV vent, if it's not it won't.

Thanks all for the replies!

Pretty easy to check, just take off the piping the BOV's are on, block both ends, add a tyre valve to pressurize the section of pipe and run the vac line to a nipple on the section of pipe. Now add compressed air, if it's fckd you will hear lots air coming out the BOV vent, if it's not it won't.

You kinda lost me..

I get the "block both ends" parts. The rest I got lost on.

he's just saying to pressurize the pipe once its blocked up. for example use a tyre valve, like the one you pump you car tyres up through. and to make sure that the small vacuum line that comes off the top on the bov is also piped up to the pressure (so the bov will stay shut). then once you pressurize it if the bovs are leaking you will know.

keep in mind the most compressors run about 6-7 bar. so use a reg and turn it down a bit. 2-3 bar should be right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...