Abs Light But No Flashes!

[gzzmos]

hey guys

ive been searching SDU , SAU

ive got a rsfour stagea that has been converted to a 260RS. wen i take it for a drive it feels like its under load/dragging.

the attessa ecu isnt giving any codes, ive checked the fuses and all good.

ive tryed resetting the ecu via the consult port and leaving the battery off all nite.

now the car hasnt been driven for 18mths while the conversion was happening , and all the brake discs are dirty. should getting them cleaned up and bleeding the system turn the light off?

please help want my car goin by next weekend so i can take it to our agm

thanks

[Duncan]

well don't worry about cleaning up/machining the discs, the first few k of driving will do that for you. Bleeding the brakes is a good idea though.

when the wheels are off the ground do they all turn fairly freely? You could have a sticky piston in one of the calipers. Is unlikely to be electrical related unless it is an attessa problem.

Kind of hard to guess from the description though. What ecu and loom are you running?

[bernardshorty]

could just be the hand brake bound on from lack of use .or is it when you try to push the car .if so mine is exactly the same .

thanks

[gzzmos]

at the moment im using a r32 loom and ecu but got my pfc once run in has happen.

[gzzmos]

ok ive bleed the system and still nothing. still got the light

[gzzmos]

anyone???? still got this problem

[webng]

Is it converted to manual as well?

[gzzmos]

yes it has been

[Stinky Rooster]

dude, First things first, are you still running the std brakes or are you running the 260RS brembo's? You haven't said wether the car is stopping OK or not?

start from the end and work backwards.

: As duncan said, don't worry about the discs, they will scrub up OK once you have been driving for a while. Just pretend you are bedding in some hard pads and it will be fine. Just make sure they are not warped.

: Callipers - are you 100% sure you don't have any stuck pistons? Also have a good close look at the callipers slides. I always give these a quick touch up with some 1200 grit wet and dry, a really good clean, and a very light smear of the best high temp grease you can find at pad change time, but if the car has been sitting then any surface rust could be stopping the calliper from positioning the pads properly.

: Pads - It may be worth popping the pads out of the front and have a close look at them. Don't just look for wear, but also for the overall shape of the pad - Are they excessively tapered front to rear (of the car, not the pad)? This may be due to insufficient "knock off" from wrong braking methods, Also, look for shiny spots on the face of the pads - this could be a sign of hot spots (also due to insufficient knock off) All of these will lead to false readings from the abs

: Fluid - Never underestimate the ability of brake fluid to deteriorate. I would drain and flush the whole system one wheel at a time, paying close attention to any difference in pressure from wheel to wheel, if you have any crud built up in the flexible lines it may be restricting return pressure even if it stops OK, leading to some pretty confusing readings for the ABS to figure out.

: Master Cylinder - Check all the obvious things such as vacuum to booster, signs of leakage from the master cylinder, etc etc.

I hope some of my ramblings help, but when all is said and done, it could just be the ecu change......