Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone heard or tried this for themselves?

http://www.metacafe.com/watch/844195/save_...ing_sparkplugs/

....im not particularly game enough to try it out myself as it looks a lil el'cheapo, but im sure there's spark plugs out there that are already like that if it is indeed a proven "style" of plug. :happy:

Discuss

the idea is sound in respect to the electrode and tip having the potential to disturb gases around the spark plug firing point in the combustion chamber, its the reason most manufacturers do not recommend spark plugs with multiple tips (usually 2 or 4) around the electrode. (good for plug service life but not performance or economy related to spark because they effectively shroud the spark)

once you cut the tip off, you would loose the iridium or platinum plate on the tip also if this is the type of plug you were using and result would be faster wear rates.

longterm because the electrode tip is flat, wide and designed for a tip directly above it, your making it now jump from one side, it would wear rather quickly and become effectively a wider gap much sooner then if it was left as designed. (the plugs that do jump to the side have multiple tips, so would allow better wear, but the issue as originally said, shrouded spark)

the iridium ix or denso iridium power plugs now have smaller electrodes, v shape tips and tapered tips all to assist in spark performance but still offer a good service life, so to go and try backjard hack jobs would not be worth the tradeoffs IMHO.

i think there would be more gains to be had by using indexing washers myself . you can already buy plugs without the earthing shroud over the plug we use them on out outboards to stop fouling

I done this and got an extra 50 kw and used half as much fuel

the way ppl carry on about spark plugs is a joke , a bigger spark is going to get me more power yeah right

ofcorse a bigger spark is going to get you more power. why do you think that running the biggest possible gap in your spark plugs is ideal?

the more fuel you ignite when the spark plug goes off the quicker it will burn the rest of it in the combustion chamber, then the quicker it will push the piston into rotation, which in turn increases your power. you're essentially igniting the greatest amount of fuel before the exhaust valve opens. the quicker thats done, the better.

ofcorse a bigger spark is going to get you more power. why do you think that running the biggest possible gap in your spark plugs is ideal?

the more fuel you ignite when the spark plug goes off the quicker it will burn the rest of it in the combustion chamber, then the quicker it will push the piston into rotation, which in turn increases your power. you're essentially igniting the greatest amount of fuel before the exhaust valve opens. the quicker thats done, the better.

:whistling:

ofcorse a bigger spark is going to get you more power. why do you think that running the biggest possible gap in your spark plugs is ideal?

the more fuel you ignite when the spark plug goes off the quicker it will burn the rest of it in the combustion chamber, then the quicker it will push the piston into rotation, which in turn increases your power. you're essentially igniting the greatest amount of fuel before the exhaust valve opens. the quicker thats done, the better.

Fuel isn`t hard to burn as long as the plug has spark it will burn , if i got my plugs gapped at 0.8mm then re-gap them to 1.1mm can u look me in the eye and say that i will make ball loads more power

if u can show me a dyno sheet with your power gains after "side gapping" your plugs i will admit im a fool

What u wrote is right but i just dont think i 1/1000 of a bee dick better is worth going on about , just gap your plugs to what nissan say

you wont get "more power" with a bigger spark, but you will get a cleaner, much faster burn. SECURITY was spot on with it, but the gains that you would see would more be better fuel economy over more power.

Makes you wonder what type of plugs and what gap they will run in stratified charge mode with the new DI petrol engines coming out. The bigger the gap the better in any cylinder condition - as long as you can still ionise the gap it really helps in lean conditions. We picked up around 50awkw in a 400awkw subie going CDI - mind you we were really at the absolute limit of the standard subie coils and there was occasionally a missfire.

CDI and MSD setups aren't used to keep help u tune into 103.9 Country Classics :(

As rob said, in times when gap ionization is hard, big boost, lean mixtures, rich mixtures (cold start), low intake charge velocity, WI - i would think achieving the filthiest ball of un shrouded plasma one can muster, would be an advantage. Under normal / lower power figures though; i wouldn't have thought it would make much of a diff, which coincides with testing.

I'm sticking it in my "interweb redneck mod" folder, till i see a single setup that makes MORE power and uses LESS fuel in normal operating conditions, read - "not used to fix an underlying issue"

Edited by GeeTR

I'm old enough to remember air travel in DC3's.

On take off, they'd hold the plane on the brakes and rev up the each engine, earth out each magneto and note the RPM drop from running on single ingition.

The pilot noted the power loss from running on 1-mag V's 2 and so long as the RPM drop was within specs, the engine was ready to go.

Twin plug ignition isn't just for safety, the extra power when both magnetos are firing is audible to any air traveller.

You need good spark to make power.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
×
×
  • Create New...