Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are plenty of threads with the information you're after. A quick search will find them easy.

To give you an idea of how they're on fuel, people usually say, "If you're worried about fuel, the skyline is the wrong car for you."

I get 380-400kms from a tank around town, and about 450 or more out on the highway, but I have not used a full tank on a highway trip yet so can't give an acurate answer.

Not a chance in hell I'm driving on a dirt road at more than 5km/h

In the rain....woooooo....Very slippery!!!! might need different tyres but it doesn't rain much.

My opinion is get a cheap GTS (No turbo) to learn in then upgrade later. Not so bad if you ding a pole or something. This can also give you more of an appreciation of the turbo power instead of just taking it for granted and being sadly disappointed when you drive something else.

Don't forget the more you pay for the initial cost of the car,,the more it will cost to maintain..(as a general rule to allow for budget.)

i'm new to this forum and thinking of purchasing a r33 gts-t skyline. i wanted to know what they are like on fuel and handling for a beginner, like rain, dirt etc. daily driving. cheers

Dirt?..................no.

Handling is good for a standard car, but it can be improved....a lot.

This link will help you find the answers to many of your questions.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/search.html&f=7

Edited by KeyMaker

Fuel costs for me are the same as my other car a vp commodore, so I'd say fairly poor economy (mainly due to a crap tune).

A stock gts-t handles really well for what you pay for one these days. If it's got a fair few km's on it new shocks/springs are probably on the cards and a decent set of tyres go a long way. Overall a good car for a beginner into performance cars, plenty of people will give you shit for owning a 33 gts-t, but I believe they're a well balanced, relatively powerful sports car at a budget price, so you can't really go wrong.

fuel - car will drink as much as your right foot dictates.

dirt... well, you don't drive skylines on dirt, mate

rain, again depends on how heavy your right foot is. I've found myself sideways at a 100km/h while trying to overtake, but then again, it's much quicker through the corners in the wet than say, a commodore or falcon. It also depends on which tyres you have on.

you don't buy a line with your head, cos if you think about it, if you're after a cost effective purchase, an older "performance" car is probably the stupidest thing you can buy.

stick with hyundais

mine is good on fuel, it all comes down to how you drive it, when i was workin down town ways i would put $30 in and it would last nearly a week, but i noticed when late for work i would use nearly $30 in a day!

i was told when on the highway (cruizin) to keep an eye on my boost gauge and keep it under a certain PSI (not labouring the motor), meaning i have to basically have my foot nearly off the accelerator or hovering, but does make a diff even though it sounds rediculus :(

also it might come down to mods too, as i have bigger injectors, bigger turbo, bigger fuel pump bla bla bla...

but ultimatly if your worried about fuel... get a daewoo

I have only an exhaust on my R33 Gts-t and I get anywhere between 380-500kms to a tank depending on my driving. It's pretty good fuel economy for a turbo car. Once you find out how much fun it can be to drive a Skyline turbo, you soon tend to forget about fuel anyway. :) I have found it is very comfortable to take over long distances too which is always a plus.

i'm new to this forum and thinking of purchasing a r33 gts-t skyline. i wanted to know what they are like on fuel and handling for a beginner, like rain, dirt etc. daily driving. cheers

LOL buy 1 and find out every1s answer will be different if u got a heavy foot like me then petrol will get used quite quickly 40 to 50 bucks in a day easy

LOL buy 1 and find out every1s answer will be different if u got a heavy foot like me then petrol will get used quite quickly 40 to 50 bucks in a day easy

You must have your foot glued to the floor if you are spending that sort of money in a day on fuel. It sounds like your car is way over-due for a tune.

In all reality, as with any car, fuel use is dictated by how heavy your right foot is. It's no different in a Skyline.

You must have your foot glued to the floor if you are spending that sort of money in a day on fuel. It sounds like your car is way over-due for a tune.

In all reality, as with any car, fuel use is dictated by how heavy your right foot is. It's no different in a Skyline.

what can i say i do alot ove small trips here and there then there very busy and when ur on south rd stoping and go stop and go u chew petrol true or not i dont have a heavy heavy foot i just drive alot for work.

ps ive had 100k service 2 weeks ago 175rwkw at 5psi hasnt missed a beat so u can say what u want when u havent seen my car i bet ur car is way over due for a tune lol glued to the floor bahaaaaa and i agree with the fuel use dictated by how heavy u drive etc but what about traffic small trips excess fuel usage y/n. :)

9.3L/100km on the freeway. If I drive like a grandma around town I get about 10.5L/100km. Normal driving (mm boost) is somewhere around 12L/100km.

That's pretty bloody good for a performance car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.
    • I agree, and yet my "HRM " hat is also on, as his wideband is in disagreement with the narrowband where they used to play closer attention to each other.
    • That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.
    • Good idea on the temp probe. The mv readings of the O2 sensors are very similar to one another, as is the injector pw. I went through logs in the past to see if there was a discrepancy and there is. Because they alternate up and down as narrowbands do.. they do often 'switch' as to which one is more. They were never 20%+ (more like 1-2%) so it's possible the difference between 20 and 15-17% is a similar discrepancy to 2.0% and 1.7% which I wouldn't have really noticed in the past. We did think about spacing the strut brace. Unfortunately the ~20mm that the GTR brace is lower than the GTT brace is effectively what you need to clear the vents. Moving it up would make it very uncomfortable, but it's plausible that 10mm is a unhappy medium between both hard places... The good news is.. using MR HAMMER it was actually pretty easy to bend back the bent bits to make sure the guard and headlight/new headlight tabs line up right. Yes, we used a R34 GTR guard to make sure the bolt holes all lined up with a known straight guard. As above, you can see the side skirt and the GTR guard are not meant to play together, but everyone seems to think this is a simple fix to the point where nobody who has had these talk to one another mentions how... ...so I'll just assume they know how to fix it when it comes to paint jail time again. Whoever they are. Nobody returns my calls. There's so much changed with regard to the ECU and the car.. that the next step really is to connect the scanner and attempt to drive the thing. It'll be pretty clear pretty fast how in or out everything actually is...
    • That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.
×
×
  • Create New...