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The same power as yours would be fine for me, and your setup sounds pretty much like what I want. How do you feel running 20+psi on a stock motor?....I don't want a big single, I want it to look fairly stock when you pop the bonnet.

I used to run it on about 1 bar just for daily driving and only on 1.5bar at the drags, their was simply just no need for the extra psi when a speed limit is required. The tuning was done by CRD about 6mths before I bought the car and I then got a quick 5min touchup done about 6mths after I got the car and the knock level was never over 30 even on 1.5bar during 40c heat running absolutely as hard as it would go.

Tuning is where you need to spend the money.

The reason I said i'd go a T04Z is they will do high 300's without too much trouble where as 2530's you really have to push everything.

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I used to run it on about 1 bar just for daily driving and only on 1.5bar at the drags, their was simply just no need for the extra psi when a speed limit is required. The tuning was done by CRD about 6mths before I bought the car and I then got a quick 5min touchup done about 6mths after I got the car and the knock level was never over 30 even on 1.5bar during 40c heat running absolutely as hard as it would go.

Was it 330kw @ all four? What MPH did it run? How'd you feel running that power level on a stock motor? Cheers :huh:

It was 324awkw with unhealthy coil packs.

I only ran 113mph, altho never had a clean pass.

I didn't have any problems running that power level on a stock motor because I knew the tune was good and the engine never missed a beat.

the tune is where its at, and with the Haltech I have faith that the tune will be 100% what it needs to be.

and running upgraded coilpacks and FMIC plus replacing other 10yr old parts purely for precautions sake can't be a bad thing, even though some say don't bother, I'd rather the piece of mind!

nope.

Uras - while the turbos are off, you may aswell chuck on some dumps, the rest of the system is done, so its just something I figure I'd do at the time. I've been told cams really won't make a huge difference, but the gears will for getting settings right.

you asked what you need.... not what you want :huh: cam gears $$$ for gain are a waste.... been there done it and i still dont think it is worth it and i dont have to pay for tuning and dyno time as i do it myself....

Was it 330kw @ all four? What MPH did it run? How'd you feel running that power level on a stock motor? Cheers :huh:

as long as the engine is tuned well 300-380 is no real issue. if the engine aint healthy it aint worth modding.

you asked what you need.... not what you want :huh: cam gears $$$ for gain are a waste.... been there done it and i still dont think it is worth it and i dont have to pay for tuning and dyno time as i do it myself....

I've seen (from many tuners now Vic/Nsw) a good 20-35rwkw midrange gain from the installation of cam gears with factory cams.

Beer Baron did a good writeup/post of his gains in this area

for $150, probably one of the best bang for buck mods out there.

I've seen (from many tuners now Vic/Nsw) a good 20-35rwkw midrange gain from the installation of cam gears with factory cams.

Beer Baron did a good writeup/post of his gains in this area

for $150, probably one of the best bang for buck mods out there.

exaclty the opposite for guys who cant get the free dyno time and associated tune..... $150 covers the gears nothing else.... look at a $500 investment opposed to a extra 3-5psi for free to make pretty much the same peak power....

cam gears are a great upgrade and i use alot of them but for average joe the returns are minimal for you dollar unless you have the contacts.... or do the lot yourself (including getting the timing specs from someone with the same setup) and getting it tuned when you have all the turbo etc fitted.

ive done plenty of back to back tests with cams gears as i have the luxury of free dyno time, i did a write up ages ago on NS.com for SR20 owners... same principal.

id post up a link but LOZ the webmaster smokes dick and im banned for life :huh:

yeah to me cam gears are a poor mans cam upgrade. and if your engine is a bit old then new timing belt, water pump and tensioner/idler is not a bad idea anyway, so while you are at it whack on the cam gears (wont cost anymore than a normal timing belt change, well maybe $50 tops). then next time you are getting a tune get them adjusted. from memory the guy that tuned mine spent about 1.5 hours doing it and cost me about $200-$250 in tuning. made good gains. about 30kw in the mid range and maybe 15-20kw top end. for the money it was worth it. car felt and even sounded much nicer. also, I was already running 14psi on factory sized turbos so 3 or 4 more pound boost wasn't really what I wanted to do.

on the new engine though I've got cams and cam gears, and valve springs as stock cams and gears will only take you so far. :P

yeah to me cam gears are a poor mans cam upgrade. and if your engine is a bit old then new timing belt, water pump and tensioner/idler is not a bad idea anyway, so while you are at it whack on the cam gears (wont cost anymore than a normal timing belt change, well maybe $50 tops). then next time you are getting a tune get them adjusted. from memory the guy that tuned mine spent about 1.5 hours doing it and cost me about $200-$250 in tuning. made good gains. about 30kw in the mid range and maybe 15-20kw top end. for the money it was worth it. car felt and even sounded much nicer. also, I was already running 14psi on factory sized turbos so 3 or 4 more pound boost wasn't really what I wanted to do.

definately a scenario which make it worth while (still a $500+ outlay)... i just cant justify to a customer to get purely a gear fit and tune by itself.

Well I'd like the timing belt etc done as its at 80k and I'd like to do it so I figured the same thing as Beer Baron, plus I'm not going to skimp on this setup like I may have quite a few years ago not having the income and would like to do everything right the first time and in one hit and not have it back to the workshop for additions later!

definately a scenario which make it worth while (still a $500+ outlay)... i just cant justify to a customer to get purely a gear fit and tune by itself.

agree with that 100%. if you just wanted cam gears you would be up for:

new timing belt $150 for a good one

tensioner and idler $40 each

water pump if needed $150

cam gears trust ones are very good (I have them on current engine, and tomei one new engine) about $300 from memory

labour, probably $200 or $300 to fit them

tuning say $250

so yeah overall it's an expensive excercise, but if you have already maximised most other parts of your set-up it's worth doing, and if you are due for a timing belt change then you'd be crazy not to do it. and if you just do it anyway think of it as preventative maintenance. :P

I'm doing the water pump + timing belt + bearings + gaskets on my daily gtr in the next week or so. To do some of the gaskets u have to remove the cam gears so I thought if I can find a cheap set of adjustable gears i'll get them fitted at the same time.

AusPost delivered a cheap set to me today for only $110 :P

Generally i wouldnt include $500 for fitting/tuning a cam gear - reason being your going to have it tuned no matter what anyhow (as you would do the ECU/tune/gear) all together.

You can get the stock gear's made adjustable for $150 or less as well which is handy.

Fitting what, $150 aswell? Hardly expensive vs a set of cams when IMO stock cams are perfect.

the list is short and easy i do it regulary:

pump

T517Z's or garrett clunkers

cooler

700cc injectors

ECU (EMU or PFC)

front pipe

cat back

Z32's or RB25 AFM.

DONT need:

Cams

Cam gears

fuel reg

dumps

Manifolds (big waste)

I have to agree if your goals are no more than 330-350awkw, mid 11's in the 120mph bracket, mine were only done as the engine was out for a rebuild and there were further aspirations to surpass the 368awkw that i already have and eventually try for 10's.

Cam gears, manifolds and dump can however influence how the power is deliverd, i like mine strong through the mid range through to redline rather than just hitting a desired peak power figure hence aiming for a setup that hits 22psi by 4000rpm.

well I'm heading out to Willowbank tonight to give the car a run to get a base time and mph so I can see what my mods do as far as time/mph improvements!

Hopefully the rain stays away and the chilly nights stay around, and a 12 something would be good!

Edited by QIK_GTR

managed a 12.70@108mph, with an average 1.8 60ft, first run was a bogged 2.3 60ft 13.66 which had me thinking the car wasn't as quick as I may have thought. Then got 2x 12.7's with sweeter launches....and the final run I decided to try and slip the clutch rather than dump it and I guess button clutches don't like that too much and it stuck to the floor and I couldn't get any gears!

Happy with that time......for now, time to do some mods! :worship:

Edited by QIK_GTR

Hey Michael,

I would suggest you definately go the 044 in tank pump. I just wouldnt trust those walbro pumps by looking how small they are! You can get 044's for around $215 on ebay now so they arent too much more for peace of mind. and chuck a sard reg in... they are around $150 at the cheapest.

And definately do the timing belt/ idler and water pump when you do the cam gears as it is a pretty big job as I recently did it all to mine. Hardest thing was getting the crank pulley off as my bolt was almost seized... but we got all the tools now. Get kev to buy you the pump and belt. I paid about $70 for a water pump and about $85 for a gates performance timing belt.

Just get a 100mm justjap gtr upgrade intercooler... we are both using them and running good numbers without problems.

Kevs old setup which is what your planning was good for 340kw so you should aim for around there.

Glenn

Hey Qik GTR i have been looking around at 33 gtr's for sale recently, just wondering if you happen to have bought the hlcun8 GTR? from your description it sounds like the car.

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