Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys if you know anyone that wants a skyline tell them about mine, as its really got to go!!! I know I told some of you I was now keeping it but I just cant afford to, so the car must go. I have dropped the price to 16k for a quick sale. There is a case of beer or fav drink in it for the person who directly helps.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...97#entry3470697

failing next couple of job interviews I am applying for work in sunny Brisbane so car really has to go.

Edited by race_snooze
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193402-car-must-go/
Share on other sites

getting desperate here more and more bloody bills lol..., (at this stage there will be no toy to replace it either) can you guys give me some hints to sell this thing I am pretty sure the price tag is very reasonable for this toy too if its not then tell me.

Thanks guys, oh and in the next 2 to 3 years I do plan to buy a r34 to replace her.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193402-car-must-go/#findComment-3482278
Share on other sites

The fact you have had it on so long now snooze i think you may be in some trouble in that...

- There seems to be a lot of people selling modified cars all at pretty good prices

- Most people still have the idea in there heads if the cars stock/stockish it's been looked after and not thrashed.

- Me personally if i was to buy a modified car i would be getting one that is heavily modified eg forged internals, massive turbo etc etc.

I think you really have to two choices...

1 - Ride it out as maybe the right person has not come along yet.

2 - Strip off the parts that are worth a fair bit of money and return it to stock performance wise. The kit i think would be a big + but if you can sell your turbo, injectors, coilovers, fmic, wheels and a few other goodies you might get $3000 - $5000. Spend maybe 500 - 800 getting the stock parts and then sell your car for like 12 - 13 which would be more suited to the cheap people out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193402-car-must-go/#findComment-3482845
Share on other sites

I really have to get my sh*t together as well... I'm not too fussed with having two awesome cars in the garage but its just not practical.

If anyone who knows my car and knows someone shopping for one then hit me up. I'll get my pics and stuff sorted soon...

Hope you dont have too much more trouble with it mate. Let me know if you need a hand with anything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193402-car-must-go/#findComment-3482933
Share on other sites

Hey Leigh I have been contemplating that exact idea of putting it back to stock I have most of the parts, would need some coil overs, front and rear bars, stock side mount, rims, and turbo. Then run into the fact I dont really have the time, see what happens.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193402-car-must-go/#findComment-3483041
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...