Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sometime you will notice some tires will give a more stretched look than other tires of the same size on the same rim.

this is obviously caused by the design of the tire, more specifically the rim protector im assuming.

what i would like to know from your experiance, what model tire gives the best stretched look???

i like the bridgestone potenza re40- agressive side wall protector

also some falkens lok nice stretched

anymore guys? maybe even some pics of your stretched look skylines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193453-best-tires-for-stretching/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im looking into getting a set of even smaller tyres..

so im curirous about this too..

Whats the smallest size you can go on an 8" rim?

Are there any advantages/disadvantages with stretched wheels? Traction? something?

You're putting less rubber to the ground, so you're throwing away grip really... Maybe a little bit of stretch helps minimize sidewall flex and gives a more direct feel and improve predicability, but heaps of stretch like 225 on a 10" rim is pretty damn pointless.

^^^ 215 on an 8"rim isn't stretched at all!!! 195 is about as low as you could go before you start pushing it, but i personally wouldn't want to run a tyre that small anyway. I'm running a 205/50/16 on my 8" rims and it only looks a little bit stretched...

Most things soft will work well, stay away from nanga's and cheap hard crap, i'm going 225 SPMAXX's on my 19X10's (hopefully) I'm not worried about traction, using $50 fuldah discontinued stock at the moment so can't get much more slippery hehe

Try avoid rims with "sidewall protection" as these generally have these generally sit funny and limit flex

Edited by GTAAAH
Im looking into getting a set of even smaller tyres..

so im curirous about this too..

Whats the smallest size you can go on an 8" rim?

Are there any advantages/disadvantages with stretched wheels? Traction? something?

when you put a tyre on a rim that is larger than recommended you will distort the tyres contact patch - reduce grip/stability and encourage irregular wear and run the high risk of popping the tyre of the rim.

when you put a tyre on a rim that is larger than recommended you will distort the tyres contact patch - reduce grip/stability and encourage irregular wear and run the high risk of popping the tyre of the rim.

I've hit kerbs running 195 on 10inch (see pic below), bent the rim and the tyre hasn't popped off. If you manage to pop any tyre off any rim then please teach me how to do it.

post-18999-1195044892_thumb.jpg

Edited by dodgybrooks
I've hit kerbs running 195 on 10inch (see pic below), bent the rim and the tyre hasn't popped off. If you manage to pop any tyre off any rim then please teach me how to do it.

:laugh: 195's ON A 10" RIM!?!

wooooow

pic didnt load properly..

Did you loose traction easy?

Edited by GTS4WD
I've hit kerbs running 195 on 10inch (see pic below), bent the rim and the tyre hasn't popped off. If you manage to pop any tyre off any rim then please teach me how to do it.

that's the most ridiculous tyre fitment i've ever seen :worship:

I remeber reading somewhere that with strechted tyres you loose traction surface area from (as you face the car) left to righ.. but you gain it front to back?

Is this true?..

If so can somonoe explain?

Bridgestones with the sidewall protectors stretch the best in my experience, GIIIs, RE050s and all the rest.

Toyos are shite.

Hankooks stretch ok for something you might be shredding on a regular basis (rears).

I remeber reading somewhere that with strechted tyres you loose traction surface area from (as you face the car) left to righ.. but you gain it front to back?

Is this true?..

If so can somonoe explain?

Not true. You will lose grip all round.

Tyres are designed by computers - The whole design process is based around a certain range of rim width sizes. If you put a tyre on a rim that is to large you will make the tread surface convex, on a rim that is too small you will make it convex - effectively removing tread therefore grip from the road surface.

That is why the shape of sidewalls has evolved - to create an omptimum contact patch with even contact pressure on the recommended rim widths.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
    • I was chatting with an ex SAU person who is involved in chooning euros now. He was saying the factory cars like Audi VW etc have something like 2000 tables that the ECU uses for getting everything "just right". Compare that back to any aftermarket ECU, and you'd be hard pressed to surpass 50 lookup tables. Even the Ford Barra engine has a few hundred lookup tables to run it (and they're still working some tables out too!)
    • Grab a temp probe, and probe each exhaust inlet runner with it sitting idling. Each one should be pretty darn close to the same temp. If you've got some reading higher or lower than the others, it's likely either air flow isn't equal, or your injectors aren't equal to each other.   The other things to check, is from the wiring changes that were made, were any earth's or grounds moved/changed.   Lastly, for the strut brace issue. It's not perfect, but can you get away with slipping a washer or two under the strut brace to raise it, and it still clean the bonnet? If you can, work out the height you need, that the motor can't torque up into, and get a spacer made for each side.
×
×
  • Create New...