Broken Manifold Stud - Removal Tips?

[Simon-S14]

ive got a broken stud in my head for the exhaust manifold... its the very rearmost stud and ive already had a go at removing it, i drilled out the inside of the stud and tried to use an Ez-out to get it out but it snapped off in the hole that i drilled... im not having much fun here

what are my options?

[QWK32]

is there much of the easy out sticking out the hole? could try welding a nut to it and using a spanner. or go a get a right angle drill, about 10 drill bits (or if your any good at sharpening them do that instead), and some patience, and drill the EZ-out out. use right twist drills for this and hopefully the if the drill grabs it will loosen the EZ-out and screw it out.

to remove broken studs i always use left twist drill bits, when your drilling the stud the drill bit also unscrews the stud at the same time, easy.

a couple more ways would be:

we sometimes remove broken taps (same steel as an EZ-out) at work with an oxy/acetylene kit, with a really small tip heat the tap till its really hot, then turn the acetylene off, the oxygen blasts the tap out.

a costly method would be with a spark eroder.

or remove head and get it milled out.

[Simon-S14]

none was sticking out, its quite recessed in the head acctually... removing the head is not an option at this stage...

might try some left twist drills tho

[grigor]

Leave it for the experts, you're only making matters worse.

I had exactly the same problem, same position.

I found it while the engine was out so I tossed it in the trailer and off to the local muffler fitter.

He MIG welded a washer to the remains of the easy-out and then welded a nut to that washer. After a couple of attempts, he unscrewed the broken easy out. (Our problem was we didn't know if it was an easy out or a drive in type of stud tool)

Then he MIG welded another washer down onto the remains of the broken stud, and then welded a nut to that washer too.

It unscrewed easy peasy from all the welding heat.

He's a great welder with steady hands and eyes that still work. Whole job cost me $25.

I'd rather remove an engine/gearbox than pull the head with all the associated gasket costs etc of re-fitting the head.

[Simon-S14]

thats all well and good but in my case the stud has snapped off inside the head, so that eliminates welding something onto it to remove it...

[grigor]

thats all well and good but in my case the stud has snapped off inside the head, so that eliminates welding something onto it to remove it...

No mine was exactly like that, recessed inside the head.

Just takes a steady hand and good eyes with a MIG.

[FATAZZ]

Are you in Sydney?

[zertek]

cant help you with the stud, but i have a good stress relief teqnique for you. Try throwing a spanner as hard as you can against a brick wall, then drink too much jacks and coke. Thats what i did and the problem disappeared right up until the next morning.

[R34GTFOUR]

it just takes time and patience, and you'll get it. Since it the most rear stud it might be worth your while in getting a right hand drill adaptor like it was said above. Just drill the inside of the stud, slow and steady and peel the stud out and run a tap through to tidy up the thread.

Its a pain in the ass but nothing an hour with the drill and a few drill bit wont fix, good luck

Edited November 14, 2007 by R34GTFOUR

[Simon-S14]

ive got a air angle no worries there, so drill out the stud and retap seems to be the best and old option hey.

im in adelaide FWIW

[BOZ22N]

what i have done in the past is used a drill bit about the same size as the stud and tryed to get the drill to grab and spin the broken stud done to the bottom of the thread, once it is down the bottom you can tap out the outside of the thread and then with a bit of lube the stud will come straight out with an ez out.

happy hunting.

[GeeTR]

cant help you with the stud, but i have a good stress relief teqnique for you. Try throwing a spanner as hard as you can against a brick wall, then drink too much jacks and coke. Thats what i did and the problem disappeared right up until the next morning.

Listen to Zertek, the mans a god! rofl s**t'a'copters

deary - if u cant jimmy it out... leave it to the professionals who qoute time and money... did i just say that? Faaark meh

[QWK32]

what i have done in the past is used a drill bit about the same size as the stud and tryed to get the drill to grab and spin the broken stud done to the bottom of the thread, once it is down the bottom you can tap out the outside of the thread and then with a bit of lube the stud will come straight out with an ez out.

happy hunting.

if you use a left twist drill instead of spining the stud down to the bottom of the thred it spins it out

[mid life crisis]

if your in adelaide ring up captain thread he is a mobile guy does it in about 20 mins i had 3 broken studs he had them all out and cleaned up the threads in about a hr cost about 90 bucks from memorey

[Lazy-Bastard]

He MIG welded a washer to the remains of the easy-out and then welded a nut to that washer. After a couple of attempts, he unscrewed the broken easy out. (Our problem was we didn't know if it was an easy out or a drive in type of stud tool)

Then he MIG welded another washer down onto the remains of the broken stud, and then welded a nut to that washer too.

It unscrewed easy peasy from all the welding heat.

I have had 2 snapped and recessed studs removed using this method. I'm pretty sure this is how most exhaust places would do it too.

[R34GTFOUR]

I have had 2 snapped and recessed studs removed using this method. I'm pretty sure this is how most exhaust places would do it too.

yeah, but the rear stud is in an absolute prick of a position and you would have to be a magician to get a weld in there, let alone a decent one

[skiwhine]

no1 use crc when removing exhaust studs anymore?

n make sure when u put ur new studs/bolt in u put some never seize on them so they well never seize again lol

jus ring the tread doctor or another such mob pay the cash n be done with the headache (n im not 1 to throw money around but sometimes with the headache VS the cost, the cost wins...)

[Simon-S14]

i used plenty of CRC no worries there.

I might have to call Captain thread... only prob is that i live out in the sticks so he'll prob charge me the earth for it...

[benl1981]

If it is really seized even the weld trick doesnt work.

You just have to drill out the stud.

[mattymagoo22]

i had 7 broken studs on an RB30. Drilled the whole way through the broken stud, sprayed some WD in behind the stud through the hole i just drilled then proceeded to drill the next and spray etc etc. after all were drilled and sprayed i got a TORX bit with plenty of teeth on it (like a double hex allen key but it adapts to a socket so you can ratchet it out) that is just a bit too big for the hole, the tighter the better, tapped it in with a hammer and then first wound it in half a turn then wound it out all the way. if the TORX bit slips in the stud drill a bigger hole use a bigger bit. I've found extractors to be very brittle and easy to snap, the TORX is both hard and strong so the chances of it braking off in the stud are slim to none. I understand space is at a premium, but if you can get an angle head drill in there your set. Hope this helps.