Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. it would shield a small amount of heat

2. without an intake no, it'll just end up trapping the hot air inside. (think sauna)

3. you could fabricate one out of steel and line it with reflective foam/insulation for half the price.

what pod you got on urs eug?

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i ran a pod, heatshield and CAI for about one year. Went back to the standard airbox with a decent panel filter

minimal difference between the two, if i can't notice it doing skidpans and track days - then doubtful anyone would on the street.

i ran a pod, heatshield and CAI for about one year. Went back to the standard airbox with a decent panel filter

minimal difference between the two, if i can't notice it doing skidpans and track days - then doubtful anyone would on the street.

can u put up a pic of your engine bay?????

can u put up a pic of your engine bay?????

do you not believe me or something?

it looks like a stock engine bay, except for silver extractors and a strut brace.

i'll run out and take one when i get my digital camera back from parentals (being christmas and all).

haha nice one! lol i think you wont notice much of a difference in the pod with CIA and stock box with pannel filter. I think they are as good as one another. Just make sure if you run a pod have a good heat shield and if you run the stock airbox, use an apexi or KnN pannel filter. As long as there is not restriction on flow, but good enough to filter the "Dirty" air into the intake, or turbo.

hame

this thread still going?

In my opinion..

if you want a slight increase in response and torque.. get a CAI (i.e such air from OUTSIDE the engine bay).. its not much.. but its noticable and quite cheap

if you want noise.. stick it anywhere.. you will be sucking in hot air.. and probs be doing worse for performance than a stock airbox but its acheived your purpose of a "sick induction noise"

Pannel filter is best of your keeping air box and will do just as well a pod.

Pod is only worth it if you will be running piping to down and outside of the enginebay for cold air.

Edited by GTS4WD
  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah i doubt you'll notice the power but if you want the noise just take off the stock piping that runs from the air filter box to the front of the engine. No pod needed sounds pretty cool when u plant it except its sucking in hot air, the radiator fan blows the hot air straight where the hole for the air box is, will have it sorted in a few days gona block if off with some aluminium and put some pre filter foam over the inlet of the air box, will post pics.

This is wat i did to mine bent some stainless up to stop the hot air reaching the air box, works well, just got a put a wire cage sorta thing with some pre filter foam around the inlet, does the job only cost me 10$ , n gets that induction noise :thumbsup:

post-42825-1199877245_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, if anyones keen i have two proformance pods for sale and they both have great sounds to them when pushed.

One is a hurricaine proformance air filter (red cone) and the second is Force Flow (blue cone) filter.

Im moving houses and dont really wanna pack them with me so $50 for the pair or $30 each.

if anyones keen, PM please.

Ohh and also, i have a clear pod box cover for R33's (N/A's) for sale too if anyones interested $50

See pics below

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...nt=IMG_3471.jpg

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...t=PodCover3.jpg

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...t=Podcover2.jpg

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b258/EMZ...t=PodCover1.jpg

Regards, Evan

My question is, if you do want the noise of the pod, would'nt the airbox or heatshield reduce this noise ? Because i do want a pod, which will make a great amount of noise to substitute to having a turbo :), but then again i dont want the pod just for show i want it to do it's job and suck is cold air.

peace.

MR_XTC

Edited by MR_XTC

Ive put one of these on my R33,

makes an awesome induction noise & have noticed performance increase under the rite conditions...ie not 36+ heat we are having @the moment in Adelaide!

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3A-RACING-POD-FILTE...1QQcmdZViewItem

I haven't enclosed my pod filter, however mine is on a 25det. The way I see it, the air is heated instantly on passing the turbo anyway, and then cooled again by the intercooler. The turbo is going to suck one way or another, so I don't really see the inlet temperature makin too bigger difference to the turbo.

Obviously on an NA the colder the intake the better because of the expansion and contraction properties of air. The colder it is the more oxygen to a certain volume. I guess. Thats my scientific theory of the day anyway :thumbsup: haha.

Jack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...