Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been told that it is possible to use GTR cams on a NEO. Similar solid lifters although can not use any lift higher then approx 9.5mm. Im planing to go down this route couple with adj cam gears. May sound like a silly question but could i then use the RB26 clear cam cover?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193782-hks-gtr-cams-into-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

more to the point... if i disable vct, can i completley remove the vct solenoid off the inlet wheel? Will be using tomei poncams 260 and adj inlet and ex cam gears. I want to dress up my engnine and use a rb26 clear cam cover..

cheers

only way you can use that clear cover is if you get the backing plate to bolt it too. It also wouldnt look very good in my opinion without the rb26 valve covers too. But they do look a hell of a lot better!!!!! The valve covers bolt right up.

Cant anwser your question about the vct tho. I know the cams can go in but not sure about the vct wheel on the cam itself. I think they seal differently from the 25 and 26 cam shaft but I havnt dont that modification so best to call that workshop thats done it many times posted above.

finally got around the prob with my cam choice. Will use GTR tomei poncam 260 and disable VCT. This way i can remove the hud off the stock inlet cam gear. Will the rb26 clear cam cover then bolt onto the NEO? Or will i still need GTR rocker covers????

Don't forget that GTR's have the 6 throttle valve inlet system so they can and do get away with greater valve overlap without the choppy reversion characteristics . So between having virtually zero inlet communication at idle and low turbine inlet pressure from the twin parallel turbos they can get away with longer duration cams and the extra overlap to help them scavange .

A Neo RB25 with its single turbo (greater average turbine inlet pressure) and single throttle plenum inlet manifold may not take very kindly to GTR cams .

Your call , cheers A .

thanks for the heads up....interesting food for thought...Brad from spool imports is using GTR cams for his NEO 25/30 and from the looks of his dyno graph....great results. Some 508rwhp on a low 20 psi TO4Z....I would think depending on the duration, lift and adj cam gears, this may have attributed to his success??? From memory his were 272/9.35mm

  • 3 weeks later...
i was told from my workshop that the NEO head has only 12 solid lifters. I have a spare NEO head and was also told that abit of cost is involved in getting the spare 12 on.

Best you find a better workshop........The NEO definately has 24 solids !

The inlet lifters are a little different to the exhaust lifters, but they are both solids.

cheers

ok just out of interest you can put a full set of 26 covers on your 25?

just get the backing plate for the cam gear cover and it should all work?

Yes that is what i have been told and i hope that is correct becasue i have just purchased a set for $395. On another note there was a misunderstanding between the workshop. NEO do have 24 solid lifters although 12 are steel and the other 12 are aluminium and the inlet and exhaust are different . My goal is to combine the other spare 12 steel onto the same head. What modifications is neccasary??? eg: inlet lifters into exhaust and vice versa?

They are too different. The valves and springs would have to be different lengths. I am looking at the two of them right now. The exhaust valves seem to be shorter or perhaps recessed further into the head.

Yeah the 26 covers fit onto the 25's. I've seen it done before.

really huh? Sounds major....The head is getting sent to enginering once my cams arrive. i hope there is a possible way around it and not have cost sky rocket at the same time. Is there anything even wrong with aluminum lifters anyway? It has a rb30 bottom end reving to 8k rpm max although power goal is 650rwhp...

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...