Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I tried searching this topic but couldn't find any info. If once of you guys could send me a link regarding this topic that would be great.

Basically, everytime a accelerate, and let go of the clutch to change gears, the car will stall. The car idles and drives fine when I am not pushing it, but as soon as I give it a lottle, itll stall when changing gears.

The car is standard apart from me putting a pod filter on in and taking off the plumb back BOW system on it to get the flutter. Do you think it could be the flutter (compression surge) that could be casuing the problem? because the air exists the filter when the butterfly on the throttle body closes, would the Air flow meter be getting reverse readings (air going out)?

I seriously am puzzled, ive got heaps of mates with the same mod as me and there car doesnt stall, has anyone had the same problem or know of a solution?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194030-my-r33-gts-t-keeps-stalling/
Share on other sites

You realise you just answered your own question don't you?

Ties are ways around it, like getting a map sensored ecu, but thats a lot of cash to spend on a ghey little noise

You know it totally screws with the AFM signal and the air fuel ratio when there's air not goin where its supposed to. Put the pipe back on and LEAVE IT ALONE. For gods sake man its just a stupid noise anyway......

:glare:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...