Torque Split

[jippa]

just wondering if anyone has managed to install one or get one to work on an auto s2. just asking as i want to do this myself. also what are the pros and cons, like does it damage anything running 100 % to the rear etc. also anyone with info on prices

thanks

[pixel8r]

Pretty sure the ATTESA system is the same for s1 and s2 and very similar to that of the R33 GTR (not sure if exactly the same - I'd imagine there is some slightly different logic in the computer).

Just out of interest, why would you want to?

You may get slightly better fuel economy by doing this and also you get the ability to drift etc (which you can still do in AWD but its not the same).

But performance-wise, the AWD will be quicker. People have proved on the drag strip that the AWD is almost 1s quicker down the 1/4 mile than a AWD in RWD mode (ie. front shaft removed). Not talking about factory RWD stageas which also have a weight advantage though...

Anyway I believe these torque split controllers work with the ATTESA computer and therefore should work on any nissan with ATTESA. I could be wrong though.

Cant imagine it would damage anything in 100% rear mode. If you were to drive it all the time with some torque going to the front wheels, you could run the risk of burning out the clutch packs but I cant see a problem going the other way...

Edited November 16, 2007 by pixel8r

[some_cs_student]

Cant imagine it would damage anything in 100% rear mode. If you were to drive it all the time with some torque going to the front wheels, you could run the risk of burning out the clutch packs but I cant see a problem going the other way...

This is not true in R33 GTR's. I do not understand exactly the technical side but it relates to something been pre-loaded in the front (which did not happen in R32 GTR's)... and this causes damage if you run it in RWD mode, do some searching and you will find the information.

The most common technique is to disconnect the front driveshaft if you want RWD mode in an R33 GTR (I think thats the correct terminology)...

[pixel8r]

This is not true in R33 GTR's. I do not understand exactly the technical side but it relates to something been pre-loaded in the front (which did not happen in R32 GTR's)... and this causes damage if you run it in RWD mode, do some searching and you will find the information.

The most common technique is to disconnect the front driveshaft if you want RWD mode in an R33 GTR (I think thats the correct terminology)...

I think you're referring to what happens when you remove the ATTESA fuse - effectively turning ATTESA "off". This would be different to forcing ATTESA into 100% rear through a torque-split controller as the ATTESA pump(s) would still be working as normal. I'm not 100% sure if it would be ok to do though. Apparently the standard setup is like 95% rear, 5% front when just cruising around so you could just set it to that on the torque split controller and then it should be all good. You wouldn't notice much difference between that and 100% rear anyway. If you just need RWD for dyno then 100% rear should be fine for the odd dyno session I'd imagine. But performance wise the AWD will outweigh any drivetrain losses so making it RWD is only going to be useful for drifting and 2wd dyno.

[Duncan]

well I was going to put one of our controllers in the stagea but in the end didn't bother because

1/ you can't run rwd only in a 33 based system (pixel8r it is exactly the same as pulling the fuse so its not safe )

2/ there is already plenty of front torque I have never found myself wanting more even in the wet - it will power understeer like a fwd car all day already

3/ the wiring colours to the g sensor and plugs are different to the gtrs so I would have had to trace/test all the wiring from scratch - too much trouble.

If you want rwd only pull the front driveshaft out, its only 4 little bolts

[jippa]

well I was going to put one of our controllers in the stagea but in the end didn't bother because

1/ you can't run rwd only in a 33 based system (pixel8r it is exactly the same as pulling the fuse so its not safe )

2/ there is already plenty of front torque I have never found myself wanting more even in the wet - it will power understeer like a fwd car all day already

3/ the wiring colours to the g sensor and plugs are different to the gtrs so I would have had to trace/test all the wiring from scratch - too much trouble.

If you want rwd only pull the front driveshaft out, its only 4 little bolts

may have to do that, was just after an easy option rather than jacking up the car up and removing the bolts and having to do the same to reinstall, i was hoping for a quick plug n play, reason was for the odd occasion i still want rear wheel drive cos i miss it

[Mr_RS4]

Pfft yeah 4 little fu__ing hard to get undone bolts I tried it one afternoon a few weeks ago. It looks easy and it is IF you can get them undone. Mind you I was being lazy and didn't jack the car up as much as I should have to get under there properly for better leverage so I'll have to give it another go one day. I am just curious what it would be like

[unique1]

use a couple of ring spanners to undo the bolts or u might round them off if they are super tight and never been undone before.

i had my front shaft out for a while with 500hp at wheels and its an absolute hoot to give it some stick and smoke some rubber (on private roads of course) i have a gtr lsd diff and it is sooo easy to control slides with the long wheelbase, i could go a fair distance and keep it under control very easily.