How To Get More Power From A Naturally Aspirated (na) Engine
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No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR. -
Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr another to bov and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate? -
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From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v. I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit. -
3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
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