Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!!

Im getting my 34 4 door very very soon.

Wondering whats the best thing to do to it when it come's

got 5gs to spend once it lands i know it not much but can help.

Engine wise??? anyone coul give me an idea / price be great cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194160-r34-4door/
Share on other sites

burnout. then a couple of hundred bucks on tyres. then $4500 on piss when you get done for hoonlaws and spend your nights bored at home thinking "why did i listen to that c**t on sau".

Awww i wanted to put a smart ass comment but it appears i was beaten to it :laughing-smiley-014: bloody good idea though!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194160-r34-4door/#findComment-3486544
Share on other sites

5G's worth of Neons!!! It is Xmas time after all and what better way to get into the spirit than to get your car looking like an Xmas tree. :ermm:

Hmmm then while 5G of neons would be cool he did say engine wise hmmm I'll have to go back to drawing board on that one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194160-r34-4door/#findComment-3486664
Share on other sites

I had 5g to spend when my R came in, however it went by rather quick...

$1.4k insurance

$1k+ on little stuff (oil cap, radiator cap, clear lenses, fuel pump, gear knob)

$256 service + $120 compression test

$150+ in wax / cleaning products

$990 in labour to fix a $50 heater hose (don't ask)

$220 to prepare the car to get over the pits (which it did on its first go)

Around $50 worth of temp permits, with more to come

$400ish in alarm / immobiliser components (cost price - this isn't inc labour which I've still yet to pay my mate for! Plus its going to get upgraded consistantly over time to be more hardcore than Fiddy Cent)

Then fuel from all the trashing I have been giving the car since.

I've still yet to pay stamp duty on the car which is $1500ish, then rego of $400 odd.

Then I want tint on the car - $350 odd

Need the a/c regassed - ~$120

Need a new clutch in the next month or so, esp when I take it to AHG and the plex sometime in next month - $1-2k

THEN the last performance thing will be is to install new injectors, cam gears, get the thing tuned etc and that will probably see no change from $3-4k. *sigh*

Sh*t can happen quick...maybe just enjoy the car for a few months in its stock form and save up some extra cash (maybe another $5k) and do things in one hit properly the first time, the last time. Unfortunately for me, things haven't gone according to plan and I've had to fork out on expenses I didn't really plan on occuring.

I actually was gonna get a 4dr 34 back in '04, and spend 10k on it and make it some 400+ hp machine.

Good luck with the car dude.

Edited by MattyP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194160-r34-4door/#findComment-3486665
Share on other sites

lol Cheers guy sad thing 15 yr law almost hit was getting it sent over found out after 92yr old car u need to own it for a 1 yr before you can apply for a permit and get it send over OTHER WISE THEY WILL CRUSH IT!!! :verymad::)

but better thing is bought a r33 lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194160-r34-4door/#findComment-3487357
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wish I had this advice when I did my pump. It went in and out 3 or 4 times, and on the last time it snapped.
    • Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too.  Genuine and not looked back.    As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them. 
    • Technically still manual process to set it first time though
    • Shit job but not hard. I'd use a piece of wood to knock the plastic lid open to avoid damaging it, use a vacuum to clean up the fuel sender lid also so crap doesn't fall in. I'd probably do pump and filter at the same time since you're already in there, I reused my OEM sock after a quick clean since the one provided wasn't long enough. Could also hardwire your pump if you feel inclined.
    • Supercheap auto sell this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-plusquip-fuel-tank-lock-ring-tool---universal-kit/SPO3564082.html I own this and if you HAVE PATIENCE you can remove it without snapping lines and generally being incredibly angry, then said at doing this job. Sadly I've removed the pump about 75,000 times over the years. I don't know if you're a large lad or a smaller lad but my advice to you as someone who is 185cm is if you are my height or smaller, is to sit in the boot and take your time. Yes you can put the seal on. The seal goes over the white thing/lid (you will see how it 'slots' in) then the whole assembly presses into the tank. then you screw the lock ring on. I spent so much time doing things the wrong way by trying to mount the seal into the tank first, then putting the white fuel hat on in the space provided. Put it together first then it'll all go in. But seriously be careful about removing the hoses AND where the removal tool is moving relative to the plastic pipes coming out of the lid when you've removed it. IT IS BRITTLE So brittle in fact I have two spare lids, and would recommend buying a spare and having it handy before attempting to do this. May as well throw https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD in the tank as well, as this uses all stock plugs and such. You may need to/strongly recommend you re-use your OEM fuel sock or use the one supplied with a length of hose so it sits at the stock height.
×
×
  • Create New...