Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

reason im asking is that im oversea's at the moment and was thinking about buying them from HK (cheaper) before i come back to aus, ive got a 34 gtt and was thinking about putting an 8" or two if they would fit in a custom box that fills up that little space under the parcel tray as i dont really want them in the main space of the boot, got a 10" pioneer 600watt at the moment and would really want similar sound to what ive got, more punchy than anything else, just wondering if anyone has any experiences with this type of thing?

basicly just want to figure out if it would be better just to leave the single 10" bolted to the corner of the boot

Edited by s13_Skyline_inside
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194181-are-there-any-decent-8-subs/
Share on other sites

reason im asking is that im oversea's at the moment and was thinking about buying them from HK (cheaper) before i come back to aus, ive got a 34 gtt and was thinking about putting an 8" or two if they would fit in a custom box that fills up that little space under the parcel tray as i dont really want them in the main space of the boot, got a 10" pioneer 600watt at the moment and would really want similar sound to what ive got, more punchy than anything else, just wondering if anyone has any experiences with this type of thing?

basicly just want to figure out if it would be better just to leave the single 10" bolted to the corner of the boot

i wouldnt go for a smaller sub for punchy bass, two 8inch subs will probably provide you with the same sound volume as your 10inch pioneer providing they are good quality 8inch subs, but in regards to SPL the 10inch would generate more and give you a more punchy bass,

if your after good decent punchy sounding bass upgrading to a bigger sub is the best way of achieving this, 12inch would blow the 10inch away

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm in a similar if not worse situation. I have two 10 inch Pioneer Premier subs 1500 watt each, two 1000 watt each Pioneer Mono Class D Amps and one 350 watt 4 channel Amp. I have absolutely no room for anything in my boot! I'm getting a custom fab project done sometime early next year. The focus is to maximize the trunk space while keeping all the same equipment and having a clean cut show quality appearance. I'll post pics when it's done so in the future if you want to change things around a bit you'll have an idea what it might look like.

i wouldnt go for a smaller sub for punchy bass, two 8inch subs will probably provide you with the same sound volume as your 10inch pioneer providing they are good quality 8inch subs, but in regards to SPL the 10inch would generate more and give you a more punchy bass,

if your after good decent punchy sounding bass upgrading to a bigger sub is the best way of achieving this, 12inch would blow the 10inch away

too many people seem focused on the size of a sub and how it will sound. ive heard 8" subs that are louder that 15s, and 18" subs that are as quick and punchy and responsive as a 10"

generally, the more expensive a sub is, the better it will be. for good 8" subs look at Digital Designs, or JL Audio

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...