Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3" split dump.. 3-5-3" Catco cat..3.5" after that... Safc 2 or newer.. Suspension upgrade (either sydney kid or coilovers) Boost controller and a front mount... Regap spark plugs to 0.8.. Some new rims.. should be doing some nice power then :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194301-stock-r34/#findComment-3483658
Share on other sites

probably wanna budget for some splitfire coilpacks too as the standard coilpacks seem to be a common fault/weakpoint. Ive got the money aside to get mine but waiting till they let go first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194301-stock-r34/#findComment-3483715
Share on other sites

Full exhaust, pod filter, fmic.. this should be a few grand depending on what you get!!

Then get safc2, tune it up and you will love it!!

At the same time, perphaps change your brake pads, flush engine oils etc -- maintenance wise.. Also an oil temp and boost guage wont hurt either!!

Or do suspension first, then power mods..

You dont need a boost controller just yet ( a simple bleed valve will be fine)

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194301-stock-r34/#findComment-3483743
Share on other sites

a big body kit that looks like your car is from the set of start wars, and some hugs chrome wheels....

but seriously, i recon you should try and find a power fc while you can!!! there's not much time.... quick! but yeh exhaust and cooler are a good start. safc will do you fine as a good upgrade over stock power and should keep you entyertained for a while, but if you want to go a lil further - whcih you prob dont think you will want to now.. but... a stand alone ecu such as the pfc works wonders... only saying this as they are becoming increasingly harder and harder to find / buy. goodluck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194301-stock-r34/#findComment-3484113
Share on other sites

omg uleh.. boosted it :no:

man theres sooo many threads like this...

but.

1. emanage ecu piggy,

2. coils

3. Fuel reg n pump

mm there about 2g there, injector, there a another g, so 3gs all up, and a good "safe" tune

and would def give you over 200rwk, and 20-30rwk more in mid range, so more torquey

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194301-stock-r34/#findComment-3484393
Share on other sites

Hi mate.

First things first give it a good service.

Second, read this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html

It will link you to about 4-5 very informative 'beginner' style threads that contain a lot of good information, in basic english.

From there you'll be set :no:

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194301-stock-r34/#findComment-3484465
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...