Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples,

It seems of late that the more technology advances and the more things become refined, results therefore with new parts are getting better and better. This brings me to the new electronics, in particullar piggy back computers. It seems A`Pexi dominate the electronic market of the jap performance car scene and rightly so as they products are very good. What i am keen to know is that basically i am in need of some sort of air/fuel control unit to tune up n get more outa my mod's. I was keen on a Unichip as my mates dad owns teh company so i could hook up one through him... but it seems alot of guys are running SAFC's on similar mod's to what i have so i was interested to see what the highest power figure someone has achieved on an R33 with an SAFC or similar control unit (i.e. E-manage). Cos i have been told a definate 25rwkw increase from the Unichip is possible with my mod's which should see on 15psi about 230-240rwkw which is my goal. Would an SAFC support this power?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19457-safcsafc-ii-power-gains/
Share on other sites

Well so far i chucke don a K&N M's air filter, 3" from turbo all way out no resonators, FMIC, T03/4 turbo, gonna boost it to 14psi when fuel pump and pressure reg goes in, and getting HKS adjustable cam gears soon, but with that and a unichip i been told 230-240 is achieveable... so is it safe to say i could get about at least 220-230 with an SAFC-II?

With FMIC, full 3" exhaust with hi flow cat, K&N panel filter, and 11.5 psi my car made about 170 - 175rwkw (guessing, as it was backed off at 5500 rpm coz of bad A-F ratios, where it made 160rwkw)

With the SAFC tuned and my A-F ratios sitting at 12:1 I made 200 rwkw at 9psi.

It was a very big gain, and the car is so much more pleasant to drive. Not only from the increase in power, but it is much smoother now... The misfire at 5000 rpm (which most R33's with higher than standard boost see) is completely gone!

I definatley recommend at least a SAFC if not a powerFC for a modified R33.

Zahos

At that sorta power u want somethin that will be able to alter your ignition map aswell as a fuel curve. A power FC will do this, and has alot more resulotion then a SAFC. Basically SAFC are suited to guys running the stock turbo. Anything over that and an aftermarket ECU is preferable.

Yeah i realise that the SAFC has a fraction of the capabilities of the Power FC and the uses for it, but i was just wanting to know why so many guys are using SAFC's when they cost aroun 900 fitted, when you can pick up a near new second hand Power FC with controller for like 1100???? SO i guess i'll just go with my Unichip as i can ge it cheap :) But i am still considerng power FC but jsut can't see the extra money if i can get a Unichip so much cheaper than retail. I guess i don't really want to hang onto the car much longer anywho so not much point i guess, just want to see about 230rwkw then i'll sell it to get a 34 or MY01 rexy :)

I have a S-afc II, because it was cheap (about $500).

The unichip is very ordinary. I wouldn't use it.

If all you would like to do is alter the present AF ratio for better power then the S-AFC is a $600 tuned proposition. It has a replay and knock level feature and is very user friendly. The basic emanage is of similar price and offers further development oppertunities with a slightly better power outlook.

YBSL04

Recently put on an SAFCII ($500 on ebay plus $250 for fitment and 2 hr dynotune = $750) and with only a bleed valve and cat-back, found 40+rwkw from 3500rpm to redline. Admittedly it was seriously overfueling and should probably have made only half that difference, but the smoothness, the simplicity, the adjustability, the ability to keep an eye on pinging, the cool blue screen etc. Why go to unichip? These Apexi things are basically made for skylines and other jap perf cars... Otherwise, to get serious, double your outlay and go with FC! Luck...

iijj

Yeah peoples you will laugh when i say this but i actually had the first SAFC-II into the country but sold it a week or so later when a copper told me to take it out before i had even had it wired up :-/ tightasses... thats why i am asking cos i want to know what i am missing out on without it.

As for Unichip i don't know how you guys can say they are crap... obviously you havn't had much experience witht hem or read much about them. The reason you may have heard a few little things about them is because in R33's there was 3 differenet ECU's used from 93-98 and some are harder to tune than others, particullarly the ignition timing on one model not sure which. I spoke to Peter Luxon (friends dad who owns Unichip/APS) and he knows the thing back the front as he made it, and he knows his stuff, and he has tested all of the computers in the country and all hsi results have done over all the other computers bar Motec/Autronic. As for Wolfd 3D, Microtech etc. they are very very ordinary computers when it comes down to the technical side of their function and tuneability. After speaking to him, and let me tell you he did not at any time push me towards a Unichip, just gave me facts and proof, and that was enough to convince me that they are a damn good unit. Hence the praise from champion race car driver Jim Richards, as used in all his Porcshe race cars and GTP cars. If Unichip's were a crap unit they wouldn't be pulling the figures they are achieving on their demo cars. Recently they jsut landed the first Evolution 8 into the country from America to begin building their performance upgrade kit, and in one day after fitting an exhaust and Unichip they jumped up 40rwkw... not bad if ya ask me, wait till they add a bigger cooler, boost etc. But i dunno, i just can't see why i'd spend $750 for an AFC when for litterally 50-100 bucks more (mate's rates :mad: ) i can have a Unichip which has much more tuning ability than an AFC and covers ignition timing etc??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...