Jump to content
SAU Community

Oh... My... God!!!

Tosh

By Tosh,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Airzone Rising Star

Airzone

Posted
Posted

Yeah. That import site says they don't do RHD -> LHD conversions... You need to go to another place for that.

What does an aussie compliance include?

- Child restraints

- New filters / fluids

- New tyres

- Brake pad check and replace if necessary

- New Seatbelts

- The compliance plate

Anything else?

Given that tyres aren't included in the cost, I can't see why this costs so much. I imagine it would be fairly similar in the US, with maybe a MPH speedo conversion (even though my first car here had a MPH readout instead of KPH).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-411623
Share on other sites
Guest Chris Rodriguez

Guest Chris Rodriguez

Posted
Posted

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...15&pagenumber=2

They argue it out here. Heard there are a lot of bumper safety requirements plus the emissions test. Supposedly it's one of the only vehicles you don't have to convert to RHD. It would be weird shifting with my left hand, but oh I'm sure I could handle it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-411714
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

getting back on topic... I'm sorry to offend you Chris, but that product is just as good as the cyclonic fan that you chuck in your CAI pipe. lol its more of a hinderance than a benefit.

The dyno graphs you've got show a 3kw increase across the board. I know you guys don't claim any power increase, but theoretically speaking a responsiveness increase means a linear variation in the torque AND/OR the power curves. On your dyno chart both curves are exactly the same, one is simply higher than the other by a constant value... This means that your product hasn't increased responsiveness, its simply added 3 kw of power across the board, and likewise for torque.

Changing your oil regularly can do this. Why would any sane person want to spend US$300 (that's AU$600 lol I can turbo my car for that with a cheap ceramic turbo and a secondhand manifold and get maybe 10-20kw on an exponential rate) on the product when you can get a fuel regulator for much less which does a much better job of the same thing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-435457
Share on other sites
Guest Chris Rodriguez

Guest Chris Rodriguez

Posted
Posted

A lot of cars would have to have custom manfolds made for their car. This is just not an option for everyone. I don't know when the new dyno graphs will come in. There have been a lot of different problems in different areas. One test that we just did is an airflow graph. Check that out...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-435467
Share on other sites
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

an HKS cold air kit (larger diameter steel mandrel bent piping, clamps and filters) for a typical car is US$170. The increase in airflow one of these would offer i reckon would be higher. Also just out of curiosity, why does it cost US$300 when the manufacturer sells em for US$139

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-435571
Share on other sites
Guest Chris Rodriguez

Guest Chris Rodriguez

Posted
Posted

"why does it cost US$300 when the manufacturer sells em for US$139" The manufacturer is Lee Walker. He sells them for $350. I don't know where $300 came up. Anyways the flow of this is upwards of 800 CFM. The chart is on the website now. It compares the flow at certain voltages. To find out how much a car requires use this formula as stated earlier (RPMs x engine displacement in cu. in)/3456. For reference at 6500 RPMs a 4.6 L motor requires about 522 CFM.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-435578
Share on other sites
rb25 Grand Master

rb25

Posted
Posted

I'm going to remove the motor from my scooter and put honda V-twin off our whacker-packer on in. Then swing one of these bad babies off each side and screw boost up to 2psi with a powerfc with boost controller. Might have to mod the exhaust and re-jet teh carby tho' :D Should be fully sic bro!!

I'm just bullshittin ya's!

:(:):D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19460-oh-my-god/page/3/#findComment-435789
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • defari
      What Music Are You Listening To?

      By defari · Posted

    • joshuaho96
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I have an Elite 2500, honestly most of this has been a lot of smaller tasks chasing little details and a whole lot of life getting in the way of bigger projects. I don't mind too much looking at a spectrograph vs having audio knock ears. 
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right??? I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics  Cheers for the useful information 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      What kind of power delivery are you after? If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun. I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred. Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs.... 
×
×
  • Create New...