Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I recently accidentally left my headlights on and drained the battery. Got a jump start took it home and recharged the battery.

After that is when my problems started happening.

The battery would go flat again every few days. Something was draining it. Anyway as a result when I started it the stereo died out.

Pulled the stereo out and with a multimeter found the constant power cable reading very low voltage(like 2-3volts). So no choice we just hooked it all up to the ignition power (which read 12v constant) and used that instead till later when I will rewire another power cable.

Now after that weird incident with the stereo, the climate control and clock settings always reset themselves after each time I start the car. So I reckon I've blown a fuse or something somewhere which stores these settings. Anyone got an idea? I've checked the fuses in the car and engine bay aswell, they all seem to be fine.

Any suggestions to what I might of blown?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194761-flat-battery-weird-electrics/
Share on other sites

The constant 12V is to maintain the "memory" of the A/C, stereo, etc.

If you drained the battery, it will not last much longer. Get a new one. And put the wiring back the way it was.

tell you exactly whats happend, you battery had gone flat, you've recharged it, however its no longer hold a stable charge, so when you crank the car the voltage drops off to maybe 5-10volts which is enough to reset the electrics because the voltage is not bouncing back quick enough when the alternator kicks in.

Like light said, check your battery fluid levels this might lengthen the life of the battery a little bit longer, not sure about the 33 S1's, but the S2 have their battery in the boot so its sealed.

good luck!

tell you exactly whats happend, you battery had gone flat, you've recharged it, however its no longer hold a stable charge, so when you crank the car the voltage drops off to maybe 5-10volts which is enough to reset the electrics because the voltage is not bouncing back quick enough when the alternator kicks in.

Like light said, check your battery fluid levels this might lengthen the life of the battery a little bit longer, not sure about the 33 S1's, but the S2 have their battery in the boot so its sealed.

good luck!

its not sealed. there is a drainage hose for the gases and dribbles. You can still check the fluid levels.

well i still have the original battery i think ;)

i had the same prob. just spent 3 bucks and ive never had a flat battery since

yeh i've topped it up with distilled water

there wasn't much missing

and the battery hasn't gone flat since, well there is enough charge to crank the engine but still having the problem keeping the settings for climate and clock

either way I will buy a new battery i guess

sucks because I bought this battery in april

would of thought batteries can be reused if they go flat

its not sealed. there is a drainage hose for the gases and dribbles. You can still check the fluid levels.

well i still have the original battery i think :wave:

i had the same prob. just spent 3 bucks and ive never had a flat battery since

never looked hard enough i guess lol, big piece of MDF in the way holding a sub lol.

Batteries can be reused once flat but they will never be the same unfortunately, just the nature of the way cells work

yeh i've topped it up with distilled water

there wasn't much missing

and the battery hasn't gone flat since, well there is enough charge to crank the engine but still having the problem keeping the settings for climate and clock

either way I will buy a new battery i guess

sucks because I bought this battery in april

would of thought batteries can be reused if they go flat

if you have enough charge to crank then its not your battery.. your battery should be fine

there is an incorrect wire going to your climate and clock.

check your fuses as well i guess...

im assuming its similiar to a HU, a acc wire and a 12v+ .

if you connect both to the ACC it will work but once your turn off your car it resets everything.

if i were u id make sure i hooked up everything properly and check fuses.

if worse comes to worst take it to a auto sparkie, they will charge for about an hour but it will be fixed

figured it out guys!

it was actually a fuse.

this fuse controls all the electrics in the car and also supplies power to the constant 12v to the headunit

it is located in the fuse box under steering wheel left hand side 7th one from the bottom 10A fuse.

so all is good now, rewired everything and getting 12.4v out of the line.

With 12.4V it is safe to assume the battery is healthy and ok and shouldn't require a swap?

It still starts up no problems every time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...