Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We'll I got my safc installed and tuned (on road - private no doubt) and cost me $200.

I went out to reinstall the unit again today, re route the wires etc and decide to check the settings incase I pull anything out. So away I got and my Safc neo shows the first 8 tuning points in 1000rpm increments. Im like :rofl:

So I've basically paid $200 for a tune that works but is not the full extent. Do you guys think its fair to ask the tuner to retune all 16 or 18 increments? I always figured that what your paying for. $200 to sit in my car and watch the air flow is great but you could have tuned all my points.

So because I'm rather angry and frustrated Id like to ask people what they think on the subject?

Also like to concur with people these settings.

Model Select - OFF

Sode Select - EASY

Car Select - Cyl: 6 Thr: /

Sensor Select - Type: Hotwire ???

Number: In: 1 Out 1

Calc In: 1 Out : 1 <-------- WTF are these and is this right?

Air Map

1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000

Hi Throttle +3 +2 -1 -2 -4 -5 -7 -8

Lo Throttle -3 -3 -3 -2 -2 -2 -2 -2

Throttle Point : Lo Throttle 5% Hi Throttle 45%

Do those settings seem right guys? People with S-afc Neos can you check what you guys had?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/
Share on other sites

Umm mate you got ripped hard.

I live in Tasmania, the land of incompetent expensive dyno tuners and my mate got his SAFC tuned for $100 and it looked a lot more extensive than that. He also has an R34 GTT!

He had 12 points being a SAFC II not NEO but this is basically what hes looked like.

1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000

Hi Throttle +3 +12 +15 +15 +8 +5 +5 +5 +5 +5 +5 +5

I can't remember low throttle but it was basically the same but leaner.

This obviously depends on the car, fuel ect.

I really dont know why he is making the car run richer.. that sounds really stupid because these cars run around 11AFR with stock tune which is way too rich.

He basically got just over 12AFR all the way except a little leaner before boost.

I would be requesting to see a graph of the AFRs before I accept a tune as finished.

Ummm.. calc in 1 out 1.... I dont think thats right I thought it was suppose to be in 4 out 4.. look in your SAFC manual.

Edited by Finny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/#findComment-3490639
Share on other sites

Hotwire refers to the factory 02 sensor.

nope, hotwire is the kind of afm it is.

DECIM8, maybe the turner was unaware of the "PRO" tuning mode with the 16 steps. the settings NUMBER IN 1 and OUT 1 is wrong, should be 4 and 4 (except GTR, 3 and 3). SENSOR CALC (calc in) is right, 1 and 1. or single and single

model select is off unless you have VVT and wish to use the neo to adjust the VVT (leave OFF)

and mode select you have it set to easy, or 8 step tune mode. select PRO in this menu and you get the 16 steps to tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/#findComment-3490767
Share on other sites

Just checked was on 4 .. my mistake ;)

Still does not excuse the whole 8 point fiasco

If I set it in pro mode and used the same figures as he has excluding the RPMs he missed in easy mode would the car run just the same as if in easy mode? until I go to another tuner and ask him to retune it - this time ill dyno it.

would that work?

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/#findComment-3490815
Share on other sites

Just checked was on 4 .. my mistake ;)

Still does not excuse the whole 8 point fiasco

If I set it in pro mode and used the same figures as he has excluding the RPMs he missed in easy mode would the car run just the same as if in easy mode? until I go to another tuner and ask him to retune it - this time ill dyno it.

would that work?

i'd take it back and say they didn't do the tune properly.

make sure you write the tune down because i'm sure by swaping between easy and pro modes it clears the map, then check your throttle points and other settings aswell (just to be sure). then you can just re-enter the tune, but you will have to fill in the gaps, other wise you map will be up and down.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/#findComment-3490837
Share on other sites

Alright Points taken, thanks a million guys - in particular QWK32. I'm going to get him to tune all 16 points if he will, not that hes prob done much of a good job. and then take it to get dyno touched up.

Lets hope he is up for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/#findComment-3490923
Share on other sites

Sorry guys I accidentily put + rather than -

thing is I have sen a fair few stock dyno graphs and ussually the stock tune richens to like 11:1 AFR after about 5000rpm which is way too rich, I think 12:1 would be much better thats why I am saying I can't see why he would be richening the mix at all..

When they did my mates R34 they said they want to run it a tad rich so that its nice and safe and they didn't add fuel to the map any where.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194771-safc-tune/#findComment-3492044
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...