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Wow guys thank you very much for the HUGE info :-) @GTSBoy I have like 30 minutes if test drive with that car/engine and it not stalled once. IMO it ran very smooth so i guess it was not that bad(but asi i said it is stock) That atmo BoV is worse than no BoV or in my case or it is/will be the same? Cuz frankly i rather have little whooosh sound than that sututu 馃槃 But either way the less harmfull for engine/turbo the better(if the stock is not an option right away) Yeah about that rebuild i talk with guy who will be doing swap and custom pipes...i think i can get stock BoV or get aftermarket which will function the same. Yeah i looked at that R35 option and i try ask my mechanic more about that if he knows. The engine has stock ECU but i can get Nistune for it. On that stock it runs quite well...but i have limited time with it so rly dont know. Ecumaster is this https://www.ecumaster.com/ It is not some dodgy backyard ECU :-) @MBS206 Yeah but it will be better to have Nistune than the completely stock ECU no? About that "same" atmo/no BoV. The drivebility would be the same? I dont know but i kinda guess that amto BoV would cause more problems than no BoV in my case? Or is the same? You just "change" one sound for the other? Yeah i read many many many topic about hurting the turbo. But no one know anybody that would 100% tell that his turbo/engine blows/get damaged by not running BoV. Of course turbo would be little happier IMO if it has BoV ..but if you do not trash i think i should be good. And as you can see iam already trying to get this right...just working what i have right now :-) Yeah iam kinda the same...i dont want nothing loud and frankly iam not liking that sututu noise that much 馃槃 i rather have little bit of "whooosh" or no sound at all. Of course in my case it si a completely another world when you came tu Turbo car with open air box and no BoV and you driving the N/A ...all i hear is engine. Here? I heard turbo/sucking and that sututu 馃槃 @Yeetus So in my case it is really no difference to run no BoV or some atmo BoV like GReddy FV2? The car would drive the same and has "the same" little problems? As i wrote above i kinda thinked that atmo BoV with stock MAF would cause more problems...but then again i dont know much about no BoV either :-) So to avoid stalling i "cant" just put neutral on stop lights like from higher rpm? Or? Yeah iam already looking for ECU :-) Yes iam at the same side with thar R35 MAF :-) @Dose Pipe Sutututu Thank you i (my mechanic/tuner) will look into that) Guess iam taking the Nistune at least :-) -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted
Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel -
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Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex. Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out. Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor. Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper. The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it. Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm). I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above. Hope that helps Cheers Gary -
If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required. I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book. Cheers Gary
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