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had same problem with slide performance stage 3 hiflow

swapped for hks gtrs and holds boost perfectly at 1.4 bar

everything else was identical , exhaust , intake etc

i personally suspect turbine housing but I am no expert

Have you got any dyno charts?

Well guys, i tried that intake pipe mod, but as i was connecting the airfilter+afm back, i realised it was bending abit much so im sure the airflow is restricting. im gonna get back into it, and cut off abit more of the steel pipe i put between the intake pipe, hopefully sometime during this week, or the weekend. there was still some boost drop (reading off the boost gauge). my mate decided that we'd replace the blitz bov while we were still in the engine bay, so we put in the stockie, and piped it back plumback style, and for the first time it seems, boost is holding at about 1.1 bar or just over 16psi! This is my mate observing the boost gauge.. So first ill fix up the intake pipe, and then ill throw it on the dyno, and see if were progressing or not. Ill keep you guys posted.

Well guys, i tried that intake pipe mod, but as i was connecting the airfilter+afm back, i realised it was bending abit much so im sure the airflow is restricting. im gonna get back into it, and cut off abit more of the steel pipe i put between the intake pipe, hopefully sometime during this week, or the weekend. there was still some boost drop (reading off the boost gauge). my mate decided that we'd replace the blitz bov while we were still in the engine bay, so we put in the stockie, and piped it back plumback style, and for the first time it seems, boost is holding at about 1.1 bar or just over 16psi! This is my mate observing the boost gauge.. So first ill fix up the intake pipe, and then ill throw it on the dyno, and see if were progressing or not. Ill keep you guys posted.

Watching intently :P

Looks like ive solved the problem boys!! i swapped over the 13cm steel pipe i had in my intake pipe, with a 10cm one, and it sat perfectly, though slightly smaller than standard. so after eliminating the bend i had with the 13cm pipe, my car is boosting way better. im hitting 1.5bar(22psi) which is then backing off to 1.2bar(17.64psi). seems like its spiking... it'll be goin on the dyno hopefully on the weekend.

will keep you posted...

zero traction in 1st and 2nd :nyaanyaa:

nice....

looks like i spoke too soon.... car went on the dyno this afternoon, and its still dropping boost. in fact according to the dynograph, there isnt any change from before at all! ive ruled my blitz boost gauge as faulty... a few people reckon it might be the boost controller, so with the less expensive options knocked out of the way, my next move is to go electronic on the boost controller.. spin out!! :P

btw, a friend was saying that by upping the gain through an electronic boost controller, youre causing stress on the turbo.. any insight on the matter???

looks like i spoke too soon.... car went on the dyno this afternoon, and its still dropping boost. in fact according to the dynograph, there isnt any change from before at all! ive ruled my blitz boost gauge as faulty... a few people reckon it might be the boost controller, so with the less expensive options knocked out of the way, my next move is to go electronic on the boost controller.. spin out!! :P

btw, a friend was saying that by upping the gain through an electronic boost controller, youre causing stress on the turbo.. any insight on the matter???

Yep clone situation of what happened to my car, the dyno never lies :P The boost controller won't fix it either, trust me I've been down this path and spent enough money on the folly. It always comes back to the same conclusion....GT-RS is the way to go.

  • 2 weeks later...

For all those interested, i finally got my AVCR installed 2day. produced 261.1rwkw on a dyno dynamics. held 18psi throughout. ill be leaning it out abit in a few weeks, as it is a tad bit too rich for my liking.

BUT, the boost controller fixed the prob.

666DAN: what kind of boost controller u got there bro?

I was using a Profec B-Spec II, I also used and HKS actuator, the stock actuator, an RB20 actuator and a combination of boost controller and all the actuators. I also ran with *NO* actuator and still got a ceiling of around 16psi and boost drop-off.

hmm profec b, the boys at Unique autosports patched in one of those in the midst of my boost problems... even though it held the boost better, there was still significant boost drop. the avcr on the other hand worked the treat. you can increase the duty according to rpm, and throughout each gear. also has a self-learn process, so itll adjust better as you drive. might wanna try out the avcr. my 2c..

hmm profec b, the boys at Unique autosports patched in one of those in the midst of my boost problems... even though it held the boost better, there was still significant boost drop. the avcr on the other hand worked the treat. you can increase the duty according to rpm, and throughout each gear. also has a self-learn process, so itll adjust better as you drive. might wanna try out the avcr. my 2c..

Yep just bought one, worth it just to see if I can get some sort of improvement before I shell out on something more expensive (GTRS) I like the fact is has graphing and 60sec recall....I'm a whore for features like that :P

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    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
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