Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Buy Thermo Fan In Bris


stenve
 Share

Recommended Posts

eh?

why would you go else where....

autobarn sell davis craig...and repco sell recpo which is just the davis craig repackaged.

both are fine you just need to get a controller and sensor...i would recommend pivot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you want cheap - go to any good auto elec and ask for 'oex' brand, good and cheap, davies craig is mid range and spal are top end.

where you located? OEX make EXCELLENT thermo switches which are cheap too, you after electronic switching or mechanical?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im using ICE thermos hehe... works well and use std R32 sensor/switch on rad

u guys do it all the hard way..

K.I.S.S

ICE thermos are made by OEX :wave: there the ones I was talking about hehe good value for money

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies guys.

repco wanted to charge me $240 for a 16" straight blade.

supercheap had calibre 16" straight blade for $100

im on the southside so where is a good place to get these oex or ice thermos from? im looking to switch it electronically.

basically my clutch fan is stuffed and im looking at $140 upwards to replace it so was hoping to fit a 16" thermo in the stock shroud for around that price. less if i can.

ive searched and apparently the s shape blades are better which is why i stayed away from the straight ones i dont want to have issues with heat.

thanks alot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies guys.

repco wanted to charge me $240 for a 16" straight blade.

supercheap had calibre 16" straight blade for $100

im on the southside so where is a good place to get these oex or ice thermos from? im looking to switch it electronically.

basically my clutch fan is stuffed and im looking at $140 upwards to replace it so was hoping to fit a 16" thermo in the stock shroud for around that price. less if i can.

ive searched and apparently the s shape blades are better which is why i stayed away from the straight ones i dont want to have issues with heat.

thanks alot

repco sell the ICE ones but put a horrible markup on it, kinda complicated to explain the ICE/Repco relationship though. PM me with your suburb and i'll tell you where to go :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ICE thermos are made by OEX :) there the ones I was talking about hehe good value for money

yep.. :)

thanks for the replies guys.

repco wanted to charge me $240 for a 16" straight blade.

supercheap had calibre 16" straight blade for $100

im on the southside so where is a good place to get these oex or ice thermos from? im looking to switch it electronically.

basically my clutch fan is stuffed and im looking at $140 upwards to replace it so was hoping to fit a 16" thermo in the stock shroud for around that price. less if i can.

ive searched and apparently the s shape blades are better which is why i stayed away from the straight ones i dont want to have issues with heat.

thanks alot

hmm $140. ill supply and fit a GTST hub fan for $60 interested.. :3some:

thermos are for E-W mounted engines.. and RB silvias :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

definatly could be interested. i just want to get rid of the f**king annoying whirring noise that im pretty sure the clutch fan is making.

i thought it might of been beneficial to go a thermo fan because it lessens the drag on the engine (yeah i know it probably makes bugger all difference.)

been reading mixed reports about going to thermos though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just installed a Twin thermo setup in a shroud. A bit of trimming and it's a perfect fit on a stock R33 radiator. A bit more trimming for a close fit Ally 50mm radiator. Came from a late falcoon for $200 from Autobarn (or less on trade). Used an in hose fitting for the 90deg on/80deg off thermal switch.

I just have to get the current draw right. It's pulling more than 30 Amps so fitting a new relay and stepping up to a higher fuse rating tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just installed a Twin thermo setup in a shroud. A bit of trimming and it's a perfect fit on a stock R33 radiator. A bit more trimming for a close fit Ally 50mm radiator. Came from a late falcoon for $200 from Autobarn (or less on trade). Used an in hose fitting for the 90deg on/80deg off thermal switch.

I just have to get the current draw right. It's pulling more than 30 Amps so fitting a new relay and stepping up to a higher fuse rating tomorrow.

I am looking at setting up twin thermo's from an AU in my R33 too, how have they gone in yours so far? have you got any pics of your handy work? was the thermal switch expensive?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im using ICE thermos hehe... works well and use std R32 sensor/switch on rad

u guys do it all the hard way..

K.I.S.S

the over temp switch in the r32 rad come on tooo late (90.c) but if u buy a temp switch of a mitubishi lancer/marage /magna (tridon part no TFS141 for around $30 which is a bolt in replacement and it comes on around 83.c

i use these all the time when i do rb conversions into silvias with 1x14in and 1x12in thermo fans on a r32 rad and never had any over heatin issues

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well pm me mate.

may do cheaper.. lol

not much diff in going thermo. ull find it will prob over heat. and ull find that ur batt alternator has more load now. so ur car will load up more to charge. yay

cool thanks man, probably send a pm your way in the next couple of days.

as long as that annoying sound is gone at the end of it i'll be a happy camper

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you want cheap - go to any good auto elec and ask for 'oex' brand, good and cheap, davies craig is mid range and spal are top end.

Does anyone know where I can you get the spal fan in QLD or SA?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the over temp switch in the r32 rad come on tooo late (90.c) but if u buy a temp switch of a mitubishi lancer/marage /magna (tridon part no TFS141 for around $30 which is a bolt in replacement and it comes on around 83.c

i use these all the time when i do rb conversions into silvias with 1x14in and 1x12in thermo fans on a r32 rad and never had any over heatin issues

ohh cheers for that mate. ill keep that in mind. havent had an issue with the RB sil yet. its actually been more reliable than my older cars. ill look into switchin it next time i do one.

yeah, clutch fans are way more efficient at cooling the engine... get marki to check it out he's awsome at wat he does

thanks brenton.

hey u wanna come watch at the strip on wednesday night ill send ya a SMS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
    • Deeve, I don't suppose that you've made any progress on this? My Stagea has the exact same problem, and just like you, I've read through as much as I can online, with no real progress. My car isn't throwing any codes at all, which is a little frustrating. I've changed plugs, checked the wiring and harness. A new MAF gets here next week, but I'm not hopeful it will solve the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...