Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy,

Im looking at getting an alarm and turbo timer installed . Does anyone know any good places that they have used?

I was gonna get both done at once so that i dont have a turbo timer that gets overridden by the alarm later.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194980-alarm-turbo-timer-packages/
Share on other sites

Mate give Leon from Security in motion a call... He comes to you and installs it, He's done quite a few stagea installs and knows them well.

I got the Autowatch alarm with 3 immobilisers etc...

www.securityinmotion.com.au

i think only boommerang got those functions alram, immobiliser, turbo timer, remote start and a pager. But i dont know where you can get that system in australia.

i own a c34 stagea and that is my job installing allarms in sydney i do allarm with immobliser 3point and turbo timer hooked up to the locking for $450.00 in all skylines and stageas

i am Adams auto accessories 0405221994 and i am a mobile service in sydney

Unless you're running an oil-cooled only turbo, a turbo timer is a waste of time.... and money.

even then it isnt needed

mine is turned off, and Ive been running an oil-cooled highflow for over a year now

1st mod I did to the car was disable the TT

i own a c34 stagea and that is my job installing allarms in sydney i do allarm with immobliser 3point and turbo timer hooked up to the locking for $450.00 in all skylines and stageas

i am Adams auto accessories 0405221994 and i am a mobile service in sydney

datzla,

I had an alarm fitted but the guy had never done a stag before and although the job he did was great he didn't know how to disconnect the dimming interior light so I get an "open door alarm" if I arm the alarm before the 20 secs (or what ever it is).

Is there an easy way to disconnect this feature... would simply taking the bulb out do it?

antony

Unless you're running an oil-cooled only turbo, a turbo timer is a waste of time.... and money.

I very much agree.

Its just as easy and a lot cheaper to just leave the engine running a bit longer (1 minute is plenty) if you've been thrashing the turbo a bit just before stopping. If you're just cruising around at 60 the turbo's probably half asleep anyway so you can safely just turn the ignition off. Running the engine while the car's not moving, particularly with the A/C on, will likely result in engine temps actually increasing.

If you've been driving on the highway at 80-110km/h for any length of time its just a matter of remembering to leave it running for about 1 minute once you stop. Most of the time you'd be stopping for fuel or something so a turbo timer wont help you here.

Besides, its illegal to walk away from the car with the engine running (turbo timer or not) so for the sake of 30 seconds to 1 minute of your time, its just as easy to switch it off yourself :)

No need to worry if the alarm will activate correctly or if the immobiliser will work etc. Also note that with a turbo timer, you wont get the beep sound when you leave your lights on and turn the ignition "off".

I had one on my last car (nissan silvia turbo) and found it to be more trouble than its worth.

By all means get one if its what you want, but as others have said, they are unnecessary. :(

  • 3 weeks later...

hows it going he has hooked up to the door wire at the interior light which dims out the factory keyless entry module is to the left of the glove box get the door wire there it does not dim and works great i have lost count of how many i have done just test the wires with a test light till u find the right one if u have any problems finding it tell me and i will pull mine appart and tell u the wire collour

datzla,

I had an alarm fitted but the guy had never done a stag before and although the job he did was great he didn't know how to disconnect the dimming interior light so I get an "open door alarm" if I arm the alarm before the 20 secs (or what ever it is).

Is there an easy way to disconnect this feature... would simply taking the bulb out do it?

antony

hows it going he has hooked up to the door wire at the interior light which dims out the factory keyless entry module is to the left of the glove box get the door wire there it does not dim and works great i have lost count of how many i have done just test the wires with a test light till u find the right one if u have any problems finding it tell me and i will pull mine appart and tell u the wire collour

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...