Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ey guys, im a 2nd year plumbing apprentice...would be good to get some weekend jobs for on top of the "amamzing" wage that i get for being a 2nd year apprentice gets :D....if anyone got anything thats needs to be done shoot me a pm........yeah i know i'll get a bunch of you's saying bullshit..but im in need so i might get at least somthing from this post...cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194996-plumbing-weekend-jobs/
Share on other sites

anything to do with domestic....pretty much...but if the job is to big then i sorta dont wanna touch it as i cant really do the job all week...i gotta still do my apprentiship:P

Of course you know and have been told by your staff at trade school that if you are caught doing any UNLICENSED plumbing by the P.I.C., your apprenticeship will immediately be terminated.

as Reece's motto goes 'Dont risk it, Use a Licensed Plumber'.

Im a third year and wouldnt risk my years of crappy pay only to have it all thrown away for nothing.

Its ok if your boss signs a cert of compliance dude, but im pretty sure any job over $500 (incld materials) must have a cert of compliance. also any jobs regarding sewer, gas or roofing regardless of their $$ value MUSt have a Certificate of compliance. Ask your boss nicely and im sure he will sign you off mate :yes:

would just hate to see a skyline driver lose his apprenticeship. i drive 2 skylines and believe me 90% of my wage goes towards them. servicing, rego, insurance etc.

....but im pretty sure any job over $500 (incld materials) must have a cert of compliance. also any jobs regarding sewer, gas or roofing regardless of their $$ value MUSt have a Certificate of compliance.

Yes you are correct.

See here....

http://www.pic.vic.gov.au/www/html/208-use...sed-plumber.asp

And for the record i'm a Fully qualified Plumber, and i've seen first hand what the PIC can and will do....their something thats best not to mess with. :nyaanyaa:

I'm a fully qualified Electrician and I get the exact same thing. I'm forever having people ask me to do some odd jobs around their house, but for the risk of my license, it's simply not worth it.

Plus, I do enough electrical work during work hours, I don't want to waste my weekend doing it too :nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...