Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just been reading a bit here and there and came across a thread stating why a FCD is not good for your car

basically it clamps voltage at say 4.8v (5v max) so you computer is thinking its only getting xxx amount of air and throws in the correct amount of fuel

HOWEVER it is really getting more than xxx air but is only getting the enough fuel for xxx and not the real amount, hence the engine running lean which causes all sorts of dramas

now my query is, when you are on a dyno and you are getting your perfect AFR's with a FCD installed. Is that reading the actual amount of air and fuel or its reading what the computer THINKS it is getting?

if it is that latter than yes it is dangerous but if thats the case why sell the damn things in the first place???

also from what i know with a SAFC you can control the amount of air/fuel mixture your getting. If the FCD is bad is the AFC better in the way it works?

experts please help

yeah FCD's clamp the voltage as u stated causing mixtures to go lean but also the timing is advanced in some cases at the same time which is not the best thing to have happen. SAFC's are not so much a clamp as a manipulator varying the voltage reading of the airflow meter to either richen or lean out a/f's.

now my query is, when you are on a dyno and you are getting your perfect AFR's with a FCD installed. Is that reading the actual amount of air and fuel or its reading what the computer THINKS it is getting?

If it's being tuned on a dyno, the tuner would/should be using a wideband o2 sensor, completely independant of the ECU (and the factory o2 sensor), so if the AFR's are perfect on the dyno then I'd say it should be fine.

very good, yeah i thought it was a bit bogus saying theyre bad

sure theyre bad if you dont use the correct means of adjusting them but other than that i think its fair to say theyre ok

a business not using a wideband sensor would not last very long.. im pretty sure that dyno dynamics has a built in wide band which logs each run on top the previous. if used for what they're designed for then both safc and fcd are quite good gizmo's once u start trying to do too much with them thats when u start breaking things. trust me i know from experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
×
×
  • Create New...