Jump to content
SAU Community

Jzz30 Black Twin Turbo Soarer (with The Lot)


Recommended Posts

JZZ30 1993 GT-T Limited (Luxury Pack)

Factory Features & Options:

Leather Electric Seats (8 way adjustable)

Digital/Automatic Climate Control

Sunroof

ABS

Traction Control

Cruise Control

LCD rear-view mirror

Rear wiper

Shake’n’Bake Mirrors

Optional Rear lip spoiler

Automatic Lights (if your lazy never have to turn lights on just leave it on auto mode)

Interior

Custom Interior (Professional retrim not covers!):

Cream leather Seats

Black dash with vinyl and cream leather trims

Retrimmed steering wheel

Lexus logo etched into Seats & Steering wheel

New Black Carpet

Boost Gauge

Blitz Turbo Timer

Alarm, Immobiliser etc

Exterior

Chrome window trims (very rare on TT models)

Resprayed Black (sparkly metallic in direct sunlight :sorcerer: )

Bomex Front Bar

AB Flug sideskirts

Exclusive Rear Skirt

Tinted Windows

Reconditioned Headlights (not leaking/faded/yellowed as is common on soarers)

Aftermarket Tail Lights (not pictured - will update soon)

ICE

Panasonic DVD/TV headunit

In dash flip-out 7.5” Screen

Eclipse Front Splits

Eclipse Rear Splits

2x 12” Tarantula Subs

3x Soundstream Amps

Custom Boot Install (Glass floor, fibre glassed walls etc)

Engine

Rebuilt/Highflowed CT12a’s

Hybrid FMIC

Exhuast (3” split into 2x2.5”, Maganflow mufflers etc)

207rwkw (have dyno sheets)

Suspension/Wheels

Tein Coilovers

18” G.Max M089 (245/35/18 rubber all round)

There’s probably more that I have missed, over $25k has been spent.

Custom plates to match the car are also included.

Long rego -mid 2008.

This car presents immaculately and turns heads. It has been tastefully modified to look neat, without being over-the top and attracting the wrong sort of attention.

No expense has been spared on this car. All major work (interior retrim, respray, stereo etc) has been done by professionals. I service the car myself every 5000km using Motul oils. The engine bay looks totally stock (airbox, intercooler piping etc) so it makes plenty of power without issues from the police.

Recently had coolant flushed (Genuine red Toyota coolant), fuel filter, oils, filters etc. Transmission service done in Feb 08 and new battery put in at the same time. Headlights were also reconditioned a couple of months ago.

Location: Melbourne

Currently registered: Mid 2008

Price: $18,000

Swaps/trade may be considered with cash either way.

EDIT: Posted new pics below too.

P.S. The coilovers were set very high in these pics in case your wondering why it looks so high..

8.jpg

2.jpg

P1010934.jpg

avatar.jpg

P1010944.jpg

P1010940.jpg

P1010886.jpg

P1010890.jpg

cruise2.jpg

P1010004.jpg

Edited by s13_pwr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc.  What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?
    • OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
    • Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go.   Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is.  I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though.   Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past.   I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset. 
    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
×
×
  • Create New...